August 13, 2020

Small Town USA

Crookston Central Park Campground Crookston, Minnesota

We were awake and, on the road, early this morning.  It was grey and gloomy with intermittent showers…not a bad day for driving.  We went south toward Duluth and then west on 2 across Minnesota.  Our route was dotted with small towns.

We stopped in Floodwood for a breakfast break.

We were just north of the origin or source of the Mississippi River, Lake Itasca.  The river runs from these headwaters 2,320 miles all the way to the Gulf of Mexico. 

There was nearly always railway along the road.  We passed cornfields and hayfields and fields of grain and sunflowers. 

We passed through Chippewa State Forest and passed several Chippewa Tribal Casinos as well.

At Cass Lake, we paused to rest, to walk, and to plan for the evening.

We stopped in Bemidji, once a prosperous logging town and home of Paul Bunyan and his Blue Ox, Babe.  The statues were built in 1937 and were designed to attract tourists to the area…and it works!  Paul and Babe are at home in a beautiful park, filled with people waiting to take pictures…sometimes…you just have to do the tourist stuff!

While we driving today we saw a pair of sandhill cranes, a pair of trumpeter swans, a bald eagle, a mother turkey and her clutch of little turkeys and then a large group of adult turkeys.

We decided to stay at the Crookston Central Park Campground. 

Crookston is a nice little place and we enjoyed a walk through the downtown area. 

We stumbled upon a farmers market.

We ordered carryout from El Gorditos and took it back to the RV.

August 12, 2020

Gitchi- Gami Trail

Penmarallter Campground two Harbors, Minnesota Day 3

The day began with great promise…another perfect weather day. We decided that we were going to hike the Gitchi-Gami Trail.

We parked at Twin Points. Our first observation was to notice how still and calm the lake was this morning…beautiful!

We began to hike the trai, walking down to the waters edge at Iona Beach.

The black flies were relentless. We stopped to spray and then we sprayed again. The flies were bothering Tim, but they were swarming me…lots and lots and lots of black flies…more than 100 biting flies…on my arms and legs and up under my hat. I am not quite sure why they loved me so much but I was unable to continue walking. Tim persevered…I went back to the car!

Tim walked to the Split Rock Lighthouse Overlook where I picked him up. We went back to the RV for lunch. We had kind of a lazy afternoon. I did go to do laundry and I grilled filet for dinner with mushroom and onions.

Gitchi-Gami is the native American name for Lake Superior. Longfellow and Gordon Lightfoot called it the big lake Gitche Gumee. The Edmund Fitzgerald sailed from Duluth on Lake Superior full of iron ore and headed for Cleveland when it sank in November of 1975.

Tomorrow we are going to head west toward North Dakota, leaving the land of lakes behind. We aren’t sure what sort of adventure we are going to find…but we are going to enjoy the ride!!!

August 11, 2020

North Shore Scenic Drove

Penmarallter Campground Two Harbors, Minnesota Day 2

We spent the day on North Shore Scenic Drive, Route 61, from Two Harbors to just shy of the Canadian Border. The road was built in 1924 just as more Americans could afford to buy cars. It was constructed to “provide outstanding views of Lake Superior.” We drove through small towns, into safe harbors, past waterfalls, over rivers, streams, and creeks. We got out at several places but we quickly discovered that the state parks were very crowded…it didn’t matter there were plenty of places to get out and enjoy the lake!

We grilled avocados and chicken and had it with Texas caviar and fresh ripe melon. Later in the evening we went for a ride to Knife River.

August 10, 2020

Penmarallter Campground Two Harbors, Minnesota

This morning we said goodbye to Ely. We really had a fun time there!

Even though it was a longer ride, we chose to take Scenic Route 1 through the Superior National Forest. It was a lovely road to travel on…lots of trees and LOTS of lakes! At the end of Route 1 we were treated to a glimpse of Lake Superior.

We took Route 61 toward Two Harbors through a couple of tunnels and along the shoreline of the lake.

We settled into the Penmarallter Campground and then in the later afternoon we went to the waterfront in Two Harbors. We started at the Ore Docks. Iron Ore is brought here to the lake in train cars. The taconite or iron ore is processed into pellets. These pellets are loaded onto ships…10,000,000 tons a year. These pellets are shipped to the lower great lakes where they are offloaded and made into steel. The pictures do not really show the enormity of this operation…it was really quite something to see!

This is one of the first pieces of iron ore mined in Minnesota. It weighs 700 pounds and is 70% iron ore.

This tugboat, the Edna G., was put into service beginning in 1896. She was retired in 1961 and is still fully operational.

We looked at the outdoor exhibits for the Duluth and Iron Range Depot.

We walked along the shore of Agate Bay.

And then out onto the jetty which serves as a navigational aid.

And around the point.

We ruffled a few feathers as we walked by mama duck and her ducklings.

The Two Harbors Light Station was built in 1892 after several ore boats ran aground or wrecked on the rocky coast. This is Minnesota’s oldest continuously operating lighthouse on Lake Superior.

McQuades Pub and Grill was just around the corner and so we stopped and ordered some dinner…mussels and salmon Caesar salads…a really delicious meal!

August 9, 2020

The Rest of Echo Trail

Silver Rapids Lodge Day 8

The sprinkles turned into light rain, turned into steady rain, turned into a downpour complete with thunder and lightning as we made our way deeper into Superior National Forest.  We wanted to see the rest of Echo Trail.  We didn’t stop too much because of the weather. 

Each time the rain would begin to taper off, we started looking for a picnic spot and then it would rain again in earnest.  We made it to the end of Echo Trail.  There is a campground and picnic area there and we were hopeful that we might find shelter for lunch.  Echo Lake was closed because of COVID.  We decided to make it work!  Tim used bungee cords to fasten a tarp to the roof rack and the closed gate…we had our lettuce wraps and veggies in our own little cocoon…mostly dry!

We took the long way through the forest back to Ely. Our trip today took more than 6 ½ hours!   We have enjoyed being here.  We seldom camp in one place for so long but it really does allow us to get a good feel for an area.  Ely is a safe, friendly, and great little town.  We decided not to go to the International Wolf Center or the National Bear Center or the old State Theater…we are really trying to avoid crowds and take the fewest risks possible…but we did a lot of Jeeping, and hiking, and little league and, walking through town.  There is so much to see that we will never see it all!

We got a few supplies in town and then ordered curbside takeout from the Steak House again. 

August 8, 2020

Miners Lake

Silver Rapids Lodge Day 7

We had rain on the roof for most of the night with great jagged flashes of lightening across the lake and booming thunder.  By morning we had few clouds and some sprinkles and then brilliant blue sky.

We went to Miners Lake and walked the four-mile loop.  There are vestiges of old mines along the trail and some glimpses of lake.  It was a nice morning for a hike.

We napped this afternoon and then went for a Jeep ride through the woods and past White iron Lake.

Evening time was spent eating a picnic dinner at our campsite and sitting by the water. We are so blessed.

August 7, 2020

Semer Beach Park

Silver Rapids Lodge Day 6

I went into town with a list of errands.  I got to the laundromat bright and early. 

While clothes were washing, I got a nice iced coffee at the Front Porch.

I got DEF at NAPA and bleach and tank cleaner at Ace Hardware.  I got gas and then shopped for groceries at Northwood Market.  I stopped at a produce stand for cantaloupe and corn.  At last I was on my way back to the RV.  Tim, in the meantime, took the RV to the Ely Chamber of Commerce to use the sanitation station there.  We got back at about the same time.  He did some RV maintenance while I cleaned inside.

A special treat just for Tim. Crapola is made and sold here in Ely.

Later this afternoon, we drove to Semer Beach Park.  We took a nice hike there.

We ordered our dinner from Ely Steak House.  We both chose the Walleye…it’s the official Minnesota State Fair food!  We chose a spot on a lake for dinner.  We enjoyed our meal as we watched.  We watched the clouds separate and saw shafts of sunlight shining through.  The lake was shimmering.  We saw a bald eagle soaring and swooping close to the water, hunting for an evening meal.  The loons were diving and calling.  The weather was pleasant, warm and breezy, a perfect date night!

Did you know that Minnesota has LOTS of lakes?  The license plates say “Land of 10,000 Lakes”. I asked Siri and according to Wikipedia, Minnesota has 11,842 lakes bigger than 10 acres…that is a LOT of lakes!

August 6, 2020

Overnight Camping on Echo Trail

Silver Rapids Lodge Day 5

We spent a peaceful evening by the water.  We enjoyed an excellent bottle of Malbec, listened to music and watched the fire.  We intended to stay up late enough to watch the stars come out…but sunset wasn’t until almost 9 and by then the mosquitoes began to come and enjoy the evening with us.  All the hiking and camping made us tired! 

We warmed our coffee on a morning campfire and had our breakfast in the tranquil early light.  By 7:30 we were headed back to the RV.  We dried out all of our gear before packing it away for the next time! 

Tent camping definitely has its positives…but I was really glad to have a nice hot shower!

No wolves, no moose, no bears.  We did see a small mouse and there was definitely evidence that a more medium animal walked through our site.  We saw deer on our way out.

We spent the afternoon walking through the town of Ely and except for urgently needed wine, we bought nothing else. Another thing that is very different on this trip…we are really hesitant to wander aimlessly through shops. We are also reluctant to talk with people…lots of folks here do not wear masks. The town is very pretty and we walked a good hill!

We grilled salmon and mushrooms and zucchini and after dinner, we headed back to town. There was a playoff baseball game tonight. We watched the young men play…always good memories when we watch baseball. We elected not to sit in the grandstands where not one person was wearing a mask and instead put our chairs outside the fence along the third base line.

This little chipmunk is a very busy guy and quite obviously used to being fed…he’s our camping neighbor.

August 5, 2020

Dry Lake Trail at Bass Lake

Silver Rapids Lodge Day 4

Today we took the Dry Lake Trail at Bass Lake.  We walked on the ridge surrounding the water. The base of the trail was Ely Greenstone, an ancient metamorphic rock that once composed the lake bottom. We passed red, jack, and pine trees as well as loads of aspen trees. This was a good moderate hike with lots of roots and rock obstacles as well as steep inclines and downhill portions.  There were several places that we could walk down for a view of the pristine lake.  It was a gorgeous day and hiking felt good.  The peace and quiet was interrupted only by birdsong, woodpeckers, grasshoppers, chittering squirrels, and the screeching of a raptor.  The air smells different here.  It makes you want to close your eyes and breathe deeply.  The walking was tough and though it was only three miles…we were tired when we got back to the trailhead…it was good work!

We spent the afternoon packing the Jeep for an overnight tent camping trip.  When we were on Echo Trail the other day we found a really nice camping spot and we are hoping to go back there, have a fire, make our dinner, and sleep out under the stars!

August 4, 2020

Kawishiwi Falls

Silver Rapids Lodge Day 3

We began our day at the Ely Chamber of Commerce. Ely is a happening little town. It is the gateway tot he Boundary Waters East Canoeing Area and lots of people come her to enjoy the wilderness.

We got a few supplies at the Zups grocery store. Social distancing here is measured by paddles.

The Jeep was in sore need of a bath.

We took the Kawishiwi Falls Trail. We walked first to the lower portage, then the falls and then to the upper portage. If you were in a canoe coming down the river you would have to take the canoe out before the dam and then put the canoe back in below the falls. We walked the entire length from portage to portage.

Our afternoon was spent at the campsite sitting beside the water. The birds are immature loons…I think!

This evening we wandered back into town for the farmers market.  There were lots of baked goods and treats for sale and we stayed away from those.  We did get a delicious dinner – garlic chicken tacos from a food truck.  

Whiteside Park is pretty with lovely flowerbeds.  Even the hummingbirds agree. Maybe immature ruby-throated hummingbird

We walked the perimeter of the park after eating and stumbled upon a little league baseball game…one of Tim’s very favorite things…and we stopped to watch.  The Ely team was winning when we left.