737 February 26, 2022 Big Sur

I began the day with a walk through the campground.

The campground isn’t very big and so I tried a trail in the woods but it became incredibly steep.

I went out on Route 1 and walked the shoulder as far as the River Inn. Here I learned two important pieces of information. The gasoline in Big Sur is $7.22 a gallon…WOW…JUST WOW!! The second thing I learned, is that the restaurant at River Inn doesn’t take reservations but also isn’t very busy at this time of year…YAY!

The redwood trees at the campground are gorgeous and so fragrant. The air smells fresh and clean.

We had a fabulous day exploring the California Coast from Big Sur to Carmel. Route 1 in Big sur was the first section of the highway to be completed. It was built in the early 1930’s. Now it extends for about 686 miles. It is the second longest state highway in the nation. It follows the coast and diverts inland only to avoid federal, military, and nature preserve areas.

We had planned to go to Point Lobos but when we got there, the parking lot was full. Not only that, but cars were parked along the road for a mile in either direction. We elected to forego the crowds. We drove to Carmel and got gas…only $4.99 a gallon…yipee!

We turned back toward Big Sur. We stopped at Garrapata State Park and walked the Bluff Trail

We stopped at several turnouts to get out and admire the view.

On January 24, 2022, a brush fire spread in the area from Bixby Bridge to Rock Creek Bridge. The scarred and charred hillsides span about 1,000 acres. The fire was remarkable because wildfires seldom occur in January and because there had been lots of rain earlier in the fall and winter and it was assumed that the fire danger was not as great. Scientists now theorize that because of the extensive nature of the drought it is more of a chronic long-term condition that may take many seasons of good rainfall to improve. Route 1 was closed for a while but is now reopened.

Point Sur.

The scenery here is amazing so even though we didn’t go to Point Lobos…I was NOT disappointed! I am so glad that we have the luxury of being able to spend some time hiking and exploring. As one fellow traveler today remarked “Being out here in nature sure does make you feel good!”

We did enjoy yummy butternut squash soup and salads at River Inn for our dinner.

736 February 25, 2022 Enjoy The Ride

The Morro Bay Harborwalk was the perfect setting this morning.  The air was brisk but the sun was warm and the sights were so pretty! 

I passed an otter nursery in the harbor.  I could have stood there all day watching them play.

We left Morro Bay and went north on 1, past San Simeon and Hearst Castle.  The castle is temporarily closed but I still had no desire to go and see it.

Yesterday, on our way to see the elephant seals, I swore that I saw a bunch of zebras running among the hills.  Today, I was watching to catch another glimpse.  There is a herd of 126 wild zebras that live here between San Simeon and Ragged Point.  William Randolph Hearst originally brought them to his property sometime before 1937. 

We continued on 1 for another 70 miles.  This portion of the highway is dubbed the most scenic in America.  We have driven on some beautiful scenic byways…Highway 1 in the Keys, Cabot Trail in Nova Scotia, the road along the Sea of Cortez in Baja, the Alaskan Highway, the Million Dollar Highway, Top of the World Highway, Blueridge Parkway, and Skyline Drive.  The road to Big Sur definitely belongs in our top ten drives!

There is a lot of information for RV travelers about this portion of road.  This is a turning, twisting, winding road cut into the mountainside.  It is famous for rock and mudslides, rough sections, and loose gravel.  It is quite the undertaking to try and preserve this place and to keep the road open.  There is fencing and netting and wire holding rocks back.  There are retaining walls and jersey walls.  The hillsides have been graded and terraced.  Dune grasses have been planted to stabilize the soil. 

Tim really did his homework, reading blogs and comments from other RVers and asking other people who had been here.  The soundest advice was to pay attention and take it slow.  We stopped frequently to get out and look.  We used the turnouts to allow more hurried drivers to pass.  We pulled over to let parades of cars go by.  We had no trouble.  If we had gone around the other way to Big Sur, we would have missed a whole lot of pretty.

Our breakfast spot.  I hiked to the cliff’s edge.  The ocean was calm and the air was crisp and chilly.

The sights long the way.

We arrived at Riverside Campground in Big Sur in early afternoon.  This is another lovely place.  We are parked right along the river among the redwood trees. The sound of the water rushing by is lulling.

There is nowhere on the east coast where you can get this kind of uninterrupted view of the ocean for miles and miles and miles.  I was sad when we arrived in Big Sur.  It was like reading a really good book or watching a great movie and not wanting it to end.

735 February 24, 2022 Elephant Seals

Today began with a chilly RV and instant coffee. Our batteries died early this morning. We were not able to use our generator to recharge until after 10am. I took my walk on the beach.

Pismo clams.

When I got back, both the generator and the RV engine were running. Tim discovered that the generator was not charging the batteries on its own. We left it run for a couple of hours. Tim went to visit a nearby gym and then I went to get groceries. Still, the charge was very low. We had one more night at Morro Strand with no hookups. We asked if there had been any cancellations for the electric sites…but there hadn’t. We made the decision to move to a full hookup campground only a couple of miles away. It was the right choice. Maybe the batteries died down because we kept the propane furnace on overnight…

Once we were settled, we jumped into the Jeep and headed out for today’s adventure. We drove about 30 minutes north on Route 1 to the Piedras Blancas Northern Elephant Seal Rookery in San Simeon. This isn’t a zoo. The animals here are living in their natural habitat doing their own thing. I love to see animals in the wild and I was totally jazzed by this experience!

These marine mammals are enormous. The dominant males are about 16 feet long and weigh as much as 5,000 pounds. The males have been here on these beaches since December. These seals are not social creatures. They arrive individually and the males spar and fight for territory. In January, the pregnant females come in and give birth. The new pups are 60 pounds when they are born and nurse for the first 24 days and then are weaned. At that time, they weigh about 300 pounds. Then, the moms are ready to mate. The males protect harems of 20-50 females. Once females have mated, they head out to sea, leaving behind the pups. The females haven’t eaten since their arrival and they will go north and west to feed in the ocean depths. The pups lay on the beach subsisting on blubber until they are 3 or 4 months old at which time the enter the ocean and learn to hunt. Once the females leave, the males go as well, swimming to the Aleutian Islands where they will feed until it is time for their return to San Simeon. Male elephant seals swim about 10,000 miles every year…that’s as far as we drove the RV in 2021!

We took lots of pictures but these animals are the same color as sand and are not terribly photogenic . They are on this beach to mate and rest and grow. They don’t move too much because it is a great expenditure of energy and the adults haven’t eaten. The exception to this is the males…on the hunt for partners. The lesser males wait until the dominant males are busy and then the try to engage females…until the alpha males become aware and come to chase them off. These animals are really ungainly on land and move kind of like huge caterpillars. In the water, they can dive to depths of 2,000-3,000 feet to feed on deep sea fish and squid and crabs and other delicacies.

The elephant seals make a lot of noise. The males bellow, the females screech, and the babies mewl and cry. The videos are the best way to show some of their behaviors.

We had started at the viewing platform and boardwalk but then we hiked on the Boucher Trail to more secluded beach areas. We could see drag marks and flipper prints and holes where the seals had dug into the beach as they flipped sand on themselves to stay cool…but there were no human footprints.

We were surprised at how many seals there actually were…thousands! In fact, 25,000 elephant seals come to haul out here on seven miles of beach. They are not all here at the same time…but that’s a lot of seals! There are seals all along this stretch of shore, as far as the eye could see.

We also saw whales in the distance and otters bobbing in the waves. It was a fabulous day that we both enjoyed!

734 February 23, 2022 Montana De Oro

What an absolute pleasure to go out the door and onto the beach for a morning walk!

We asked the camp host yesterday what we should see while we are in Morro Bay. He suggested that we drive to Montana De Oro and hike. He said that this state park is a well kept secret and that the hiking there and the scenery was unbelievably beautiful.

A look back at Morro Bay.

We drove the short distance to the park through a forest area. Workmen were clearing all the brush from the forest floor; we think as a fire retardant method.

We hiked the Hazard Peak Trail first. The ocean views were breathtaking.

We drove further to the Badger Trail and hiked the Bluff Trail…spectacular! I could take 1,000 pictures and they would still not capture the magic of this place…come and see!

We have said that California is very different. We have noticed that there is NO trash…not along the roadsides and NONE on the beach…it really makes a big difference! There is a charge at every store if you need a bag. There is an extra charge for everything you buy that comes in a plastic bottle. There is an abundance of solar panels and wind farms. Californians are very proud of this place and it shows! We have a neighbor here in the campground who is traveling with a goat. This evening, we saw a man pushing a baby stroller with a large black and white rabbit in it. Only in California!

This evening we drove to town for dinner. We ate at Dutchman’s Seafood House. We both chose something we have never had. Tim enjoyed sand dabs, mild white fish in a piccata sauce. I ordered the cioppino, a San Fransisco favorite, that features a savory tomato broth filled with calamari, shrimp, clams, mussels, fish, and crabmeat. We talked about how we are working to step outside the box…or outside our comfort zones to have new experiences. Tim really doesn’t like the idea of a box or barrier of any kind. We do always want to be open to trying new things!

733 February 22, 2022 Morro Strand State Park

One last set of laps at the showgrounds in Santa Barbara and then we took off, north on 101 or the Historic Camino Real.  We traveled up and over hills and mountains.  We occasionally had a glimpse of the coast; the road runs parallel to the shore. This ride took us mostly inland on another scenic route.

The forecast was for winter weather with temperatures in the 50’s.  There were wind warnings with gusts from 35-45.  There was also a chance of rain.  When we left Santa Barbara, the sky was vividly blue, with a slight breeze.  We found sections of stronger wind as we drove.  There were low hanging clouds on the peaks that gradually became dense and grey.

Can you spot the rainbow in these clouds?

We had light rain intermittently.  California desperately needs rain.

We followed the gently rolling road through a landscape of verdant green hills, gnarly trees, Bared rock, and white fenced ranches.

We passed miles of well-tended vineyards…more than I have ever seen in one place.

We also passed acres upon acres of strawberry fields.  Workers were harvesting the bright red berries.

At Santa Maria, the sky was bright.

When we got to Morro Strand State Park Campground, we had a pleasant surprise.  Our campsite (even without hookups) is the best site in the park.  We have a view of the ocean and a path to the beach. 

These little beach squirrels are EVERYWHERE!

This afternoon, we took a long walk on the beach.  We walked a mile and we were still a long way away from Morro Rock!  It was very windy and brisk.

There were hundreds of whole sand dollars scattered on the beach.

Later, we took the Jeep and drove to see Morro Rock.  This is a domed 573 foot, 23-million-year-old, volcanic plug.  We walked around the great rock.

Otters like the protected Morro Bay.  There were several moms with babies.  I took tons of pictures but otters are slippery and quick.  Moms float with babies on their bellies to nurse.

Serious surfers!

The view of Morro rock from the town.

Houses perched on the hillsides all wanting a view of the ocean. Windows across the front of every home.

Sunset.

732 February 20-21, 2022 Santa Barbara

Sunday was a chore day and a NASCAR day and a shopping day and a laze around day.

Both days, I did laps around the showground lot to get my steps in.

Today, we went back to Santa Barbara with our bikes.

We saw a bunch of black-crowned night herons in the parking lot.

We saw swimmers about 100 yards from shore. I was in awe of the strength and bravery that it takes to swim out there and they were fast!

We entered Shoreline Park…no bike riding here but the views were really pretty so we pushed our bikes, stopping frequently to look at the ocean.

There was a set of steps leading down to the beach.

We turned south and rode for a couple of miles until the bike path turned inland.

We rode onto the pier thinking we might have lunch there, but it was very busy. We took our bikes back to the Jeep and walked to the harbor. We ate lunch at Salty At The Beach and had our first poke bowl followed by excellent salads.

After lunch, we walked around the harbor. It was windy and chilly and invigorating and just what we needed after our meal.

We had a great day!

731 February 19, 2022 Jalama

I began my day with a walk in a new place. We are camping at Earl Warren Showgrounds in a parking lot. The perks are the full hookups, the excellent WIFI and the location…right here in Santa Barbara. I did laps around the premises.

Gorgeous woodpecker. His mate was on a nearby pole.

We packed a picnic lunch and took off in the Jeep to explore the coast. We drove north on Route 101. This is a scenic highway. As I watched the world go by, I wondered about the natural forces that conspired to create this wonderful wrinkled rumpled rugged terrain.

We started at Gaviota State Park. There is a road that follows the coast and we took it until it ended at a private cattle ranch. The ocean views were amazing.

The oil platforms were scarcely visible, the marine layer was still thick.

We found another beach on GPS and turned onto Jamala Road. We drove 14 curvy miles through the hills.

At last, we arrived at Jamala Beach County Park. We took a walk.

We had our lunch.

I drove on the way back, happy to let Tim enjoy the ride.

We stopped at a vista point and walked to the railroad bridge. The train runs right along the coast all the way from Santa Barbara.

730 February 18, 2022 They Were RIGHT!!

I walked through Fillmore today; through the neighborhoods where everyone had a citrus tree and the air smelled like lemons and oranges.

The high school is highly rated.

The train station.

Tim did a something different this morning.  He was missing the fitness room.  Yesterday when we were walking through downtown, we found this gym.  We asked about a day pass.  Tim went this morning and used the workout equipment.

We made the short drive from Fillmore to Santa Barbara. 

This afternoon, we took the bikes to the Beach Way bike path.  What a pleasure to ride along the oceanside.

Frisbee football on the beach.

We rode down the Santa Barbara Pier.

Tim made a video as we stood at the end.  There was a guy playing guitar and it was really mellow and relaxing.

The harbor.

Several people told us that Santa Barbara is beautiful…they were RIGHT!! This is the quintessential California beach town!

We went back to the RV and had a quiet evening.

729 February 17, 2022 Giessinger Winery

The moon last night was bright and gorgeous.  We stood outside looking before we went to bed.  It was already chilly and the temperatures dropped overnight into the 30’s.  We were warm and cozy inside and even though we had no hookups, we could run the propane furnace. 

The male ostriches had a very busy evening.  In order to attract females, the males make a booming noise; two short bursts followed by a longer burst.  Tim said it sounded like a 400-pound owl and indeed it did!  It was our observation that the girls and guys were all in a very amorous mood…love was definitely in the air!

In the morning, while I had my coffee, I sat watching the moon set, and the sun as it cast a reddish glow on the mountains.

I walked the property and along the backside of the ostrich pens.  The ostriches followed my every move.  I was looking for feathers to take to Oliver and Austin but the ostriches wouldn’t allow me to get close enough to gather them.  I had definitely learned to respect these animals!

We left the high desert and traveled through San Francisquito Canyon.  This was a winding, wiggle-waggle road with stunning scenery. 

We think that these huge pipelines carry water to the cities along the coast.

There were reminders about fire danger posted all along the roadside.  There are no campfires, wood fires, or charcoal fires allowed.  Camp stoves can only be used with a permit.  It is so dry.  The ostrich ranch owner was telling us about a fire that encroached on their ranch, reaching the highest ridges near their home.  A couple of the fenceposts caught fire but otherwise no harm came to their family or the birds.  He said it was the scariest night of his life. 

At last, we arrived in Heritage Valley.  This area is rife with avocado groves and citrus groves and lots of tree nurseries. 

We arrived at Giessinger Winery, another Harvest Host site, before lunchtime.  We wandered through historic downtown Fillmore.  This is a cute little town with a railroad theme. 

I love the smell of an old hardware store…the aromas of must and paint and oil and wood comingled.

Old truck of the day.

Our campsite sits parallel to the railroad tracks but the trains are inactive except for fun weekend tourist rides. 

We had a delightful afternoon, tasting wines with Shelby.  We tried a white, two reds, a cider, two dessert wines and two ports…it was ALL good!  We purchased 3 bottles.

There were some men sitting along the walking path.   They had no food.  Tim gathered some fruit and protein shakes and yogurt and took it outside to them.  We have so much to be grateful for…we need to help when we can.

728 February 16, 2022 Quail Run Ostrich Ranch

We left Indio at around nine this morning.  We drove for a short distance on Route 10.  We saw huge wind farms and snow-covered mountains…gorgeous.

Then we took scenic roads all the way to our destination at Lake Hughes. 

At higher elevations, we began to see Joshua trees.

If you have never stayed at an ostrich ranch…you really should consider it!  This place was amazing. 

There is a large group or unkindness or conspiracy of ravens that live here.

The owner met us with some raw honey and he also brought us ostrich oil.  This oil comes from Africa.  It has lots of healing properties and is good for inflammation.  It is supposed to make your skin look and feel more youthful. 

We explored on our own for a while, marveling at these magnificent beasts.

Beautiful California Scrub Jay.

There are gigantic Coulter Pines here with enormous pine cones. These trees were tall 70 years ago. These trees are also called widowmakers. The cones are very heavy.

At 3pm, we had a tour of the ranch.  We learned A LOT about ostriches.  There are three breeds and two are raised here…black and blue.  Ostriches have not changed for 135 million years.  These animals are very powerful.  They can run at speeds up to 60mph and can sustain their speed for up to 15 miles.  They have incredibly strong immune systems and do not get sick.  They also heal very rapidly after injury.  They have no natural predators here.  They have killed a pack of 4 coyotes.  Mountain lions are no match for them…the lions are too small.  They are omnivores and will eat gophers, squirrels, lizards, rats and anything else that gets into their enclosures.  The ranch owners have seen an ostrich eat a live rattlesnake, all the while being continuously bitten.  They are impervious to the effects of snake venom.  In the wild, ostriches can live 40 years.  In captivity they can live 75 to 100 years.  Ostriches are not usually monogamous but there is a pair here, Morticia and Gomez, who will not tolerate other partners.  He is 44 years old.  The ranch owner is allowing the bird to nibble on his fingers.  They have no teeth and no bite strength…less than a third of the power of a duck…but don’t be fooled. 

Ostrich eggs weigh about 5 pounds and are the equivalent of 24-36 large chicken eggs. Chicken eggs are about 35% yolk and 65% white. Ostrich eggs are 65% yolk. They apparently don’t taste that great…and they were $50.00 each…we didn’t buy any. We also didn’t think we could eat that whole thing! Each female ostrich has their own “fingerprint” on their eggs. The owner can look at the striations and patterns on the egg and tell which were laid by which hen.

These ostriches can be bad dudes!   They have very strong legs and can kick with the force of 2000 pounds per inch.  They can outrun anything and anyone.  They will not allow visitors to their enclosure without becoming aggressive.  We were warned that if we went into the pens, we would be in serious trouble. 

The tour was great and the owners were gracious and hospitable.

This ranch sits along Pine Canyon Road right on the San Andreas Fault.  There is earthquake monitoring equipment on the hill above the ranch.

We found this site through Harvest Host.  What a unique experience to be able to come here and learn.

The February Full Snow Moon should just be rising soon and be directly overhead at midnight.   I am looking forward to seeing it and appreciating it!