Right across from the RV park, there was this Christmas shop…we didn’t go!
We left to travel further north and east to Rimouski. It was a very pretty ride.
We looked on All Stays to find a place to camp. We found the Pointe-au-Pere wharf where you can camp for free. We were not sure what to expect but this was really a great place to stay right on the Saint Lawrence River.
We walked down to look at the submarine.
We took pictures of the lighthouse.
The Museum of the Empress of Ireland, a ship that wrecked nearby in 1914.
We walked down on the rocks to the water’s edge.
We took the Jeep and our bikes into town. We parked at the grocery store and cycled on the bike path along the seawall.
We went into the store and found duck liver pate, lobster mousse, and marinated mussels. We also got some raisin nut bread and some “real” strawberries and for our dinner, we had a “taste of Canada”…bon appetit!
The weather forecast for later calls for thunderstorms. The wind has picked up and there are some whitecaps on the water. We shall see what the night brings.
There are 27 other RVs here with us on the wharf. For a while, there was a lot of car traffic. We heard that the locals ride down to look at the rigs parked here overnight.
It was chilly and I needed a sweatshirt for my morning walk. I took the multiuse path along the Saint Lawrence River to the Parc de la Pointe.
In the harbor it was low tide and the boats were sitting in mud.
Tim took a bike ride down to the water as well.
Later, we drove to Rue Lafontaine and walked through town.
We spent some time walking around this old stone church.
I know two small boys who would love this splash pad!
Lots of sculptures and art in town.
We wandered into shops and tried reading and interpreting signs and storefronts.
Charlie Chaplin sits outside the old movie theater. Both Minions and Thor are currently playing…in French of course!
We were able to find postcards and then got stamps at the post office. We went into the bookstore where we found maps and a French/English dictionary.
I love shopping in a new grocery store. We went in nearly every aisle. It’s fun to find some new things to try!
We both biked back to the point this afternoon.
We met Raymond, an 86-year-old cyclist who spoke no English. He did let us know that we should watch for beluga whales in the water. He also told us that he had recently biked 135 kilometers in a bike race. He was a nice man with a great attitude. He was in great shape and should be an inspiration to us all! Our conversation with him just proves that if people really want to communicate…it is absolutely possible.
Happy Birthday Allison! We hope that you have the very best day 😊
There was a thunderstorm yesterday evening while we were at dinner. After the storm passed, the air was cool and fresh and clean. The heat and humidity were washed away. The sunset was really nice.
Tuesday morning, I walked the maze of snowmobile paths.
Then along the roadside.
Today we drove north on 1 all the way to the US border town of Van Buren, Here we passed through Saint John’s Valley…gorgeous!
We got to the border crossing at St. Leonard in New Brunswick. We got out of the RV and we were interviewed at the guard shack. All our paperwork was in order and we were allowed to enter Canada. After a few miles, we entered the province of Quebec. All of the signs were now in French. In May of this year, Quebec passed an ordinance stating that all signage was to be in French only in an effort to preserve the culture and heritage. We are going to get a crash course in French…neither of us speaks it at all. Fortunately for us, all of our initial encounters have been with people who also speak English very well. We downloaded Google Translate while we are in an area with service thinking that if we really needed to convey important information then at least we have a tool to do so!
Temiscouata.
New wildlife fencing along the highway.
Tim wove through crowded city streets, RV and tow vehicle, all the way to the campground. We are staying for the next two nights in a town called Riviere du Loup.
This evening we went to the ferry terminal where there was a restaurant on the water.
Unfortunately, they were full. I quickly did a google search and we drove to Restaurant Le Saint-Patrice.
Our menus were in English, our servers were gracious, and our food was outstanding.
After dinner, we meandered through town. We saw a park and stopped to walk. We were in Parc de Chutes. This is a dam and hydroelectric plant with falls.
Upper Falls.
Grand Falls.
The most amazing thing about this place was that we were able to walk on a pedestrain bridge across the Grand Falls. The walkway was a metal grate. You could see the water thundering under your feet and you could feel the power of the rushing current. Enjoy Tim’s video!
This sculpture in the park opens and closes like a lotus flower every hour.
Canada professes to be both tolerant and liberal.
There was some rain this evening and then the sky was lovely.
We were up early and finished our morning exercise. We packed the RV and left Millinocket before 9 am. It was Sunday and the traffic was light. We are also on a road less traveled. We took 95 N to its end in Houlton. From there we took Route 1, a scenic highway on the border of New Brunswick and Maine. We saw hayfields and rolling miles of potatoes. There were new potato stands all along the way. We passed through small towns and rode past farms and houses. All of the houses had tractors and snow plows and wood piles. This is a remote area. There were signs reminding drivers to share the road with cross country skiers and other signs to share the road with snowmobiles and moose and ATV’s and Amish buggies.
We arrived in Presque Isle before noon. Our first order of business was to work on getting a prescription filled. We also shopped for supplies. We intend to drive into Canada on Tuesday and we aren’t sure what resources will be available when we get there.
We were able to get camping for just one night at Arndts Aroostook River Lodge and Campground. We rested and then drove into town to try and get a Canadian map. We struck out and returned to the RV. It was hot and we were tired so we really didn’t do much of anything for the remainder of the day. I don’t even have pictures to share!
We slept well and woke up to rain on Monday morning but as soon as the rain stopped, I was out walking. I walked through beautiful fields of wildflowers. Further south, all the lupine has gone to seed, similar to this.
Here though, I was able to find some purple lupine.
As I got closer to the Aroostook River, I could smell the sweet fragrance of wild cucumber.
Simply pretty.
Fuschia fireweed.
Joe pye weed.
We still had some things to do before we left town. We went to the bank and got Canadian currency. When we got back to the campground, we checked with the office and learned that the people coming into our site have been delayed by a day, so now we have a place to stay tonight!
We made a reservation at a campground on the Saint Lawrence River in Riviere-du-Loup, Quebec. I spent a long time this afternoon on the ArriveCan site. We need proof of vaccination to be able to enter Canada. We might also be randomly chosen to do COVID screening. I think everything is in place for a smooth border crossing. We shall see tomorrow!
Dinner tonight was at the Irish Setter Pub because Mainely Mexican was closed for carpet cleaning. Our food was good and we had great service.
We did our usual morning exercise and then packed the Jeep for another sleepover adventure. We drove north toward Katahdin and then took an access route to Golden Road. This is an old logging road; partially paved and partially gravel washboard.
We drove several miles until we reached the Class 5 rapids on the Penobscot River. We were just in time to see these two groups of whitewater rafters shoot through the rapids. It was exciting to watch!
Tim took a video.
We found the perfect camping spot at Horserace Brook. We sat by the water.
We waded in.
The minnows nibbled on our feet and ankles.
We heard the loons calling across the lake.
We watched kayakkers cross the lake after they had navigated the rapids.
This is an alder tree. It is not an evergreen. It had the tiniest pinecone like fruits.
We went back to our campsite for dinner but I was prowling around on the water’s edge most of the evening, hoping to see a moose.
We sat by the crackling fire until bedtime. I made blueberry crumble with muesli and walnuts and sunflower seeds. It was delicious. We finished the evening with blueberry tea laced with maple syrup.
At midnight, the sky was very dark with breathtaking stars.
Saturday morning, Tim did his yoga by the lake and I walked 2 miles on Golden Road. We were in the North Maine Woods. We packed the Jeep and drove to the Hoserace Pond Trailhead. The first half mile was realtively easy. After that, the trail became more challenging with lots of slick, moss-covered rocks and lots of roots and about a dozen stream crossings. A moderately arduous 2 mile (each way) trail…but finally we arrived at the pond.
We rested there and ate protein bars for our breakfast. Too soon, we turned around and went back the way we came.
I really was looking forward to cold watermelon and we feasted when we got back to the Jeep. We had planned to do more exploring but we were tired; the trail kicked our butts. We elected to go back to the RV.
We spent the afternoon, cleaning and organizing and doing laundry. We will move further north tomorrow to Presque Isle.
782 July 19-21, 2022 Katahdin Woods and Waters Scenic Byway
We made a good decision when we delayed our trip for overnight tent camping. It rained all night and into Tuesday morning. I took laundry to town, walked, got some groceries, and filled the Jeep with gas. By the time I got back to the RV, the sun was shining. We packed all our gear and off we went.
We traveled back to Baxter State Park. We were able to get a leanto reservation for South Branch Pond Campground. It was 38 miles on a gravel road. We had let some air out of the tires, the grader had come through and smoothed the road, and it had rained overnight so there was no dust to contend with. It was a beautiful ride.
We stopped at Ledge Falls.
There were sections of extremely thick forest.
We stopped for lunch at Nesowadnehunk Field.
We arrived at the campground and we were alittle disappointed to see that we couldn’t drive the Jeep right up to the leanto. We decided to sleep in the leanto instead of the tent.
After getting set up, we walked down to Lower South Branch Pond. It looked just like a mountain pond in Maine should look…lovely!
Tim was going to sit on the wooden wall when he noticed this pair of mating snakes.
We saw this immature frog in the clear and shallow water. Can you see that he still has his tail?
We enjoyed some blueberry wine and then we heard the thunder! We gathered our things using the leanto as a protection from the rain. The leanto turned out to be another really wise decision!
The rain passed and we cooked our omelets with spinach and mushrooms and cheese and ham. The best part of the meal though were the blueberry biscuits…smothered in bluebarry jam.
We had a pleasant evening by the fire.
On Wednesday morning, we saw that some little critter had dug a hole under the platform where we slept.
We took the Pogy Notch Trail. According to the trail map, it looked like the hike followed the edge of South Branch Pond.
The board walk!
For the first mile or so, we walked about 50 yards from the water, with just glimpses of the lake through the trees.
At last, we came to a boat launch where we could see the view.
We came to a stream crossing and “nimbly” skipped across the rocks.
We hiked further and found another path with lake access.
We could see the trail climbing up to the top of the cliffs overlooking the water…yes we climbed!
It was good effort and absolutely worth it! Such peace and serenity.
We took a spur to a small set of falls. Another family was there as well.
We turned and walked back the way we had come.
We hiked almost 5 miles.
We packed up and left the campground enjoyed some lunch at Trout Brook Crossing.
We were not yet sure where we were going to spend the night. Tim asked for my opinion and I said we should just drive and see if we found a place that we liked. Ideally, I added, this place would be on the water, with a beautiful view, would have blueberry wine for sale, hot showers, and maybe even have a restaurant…we laughed! We exited Baxter State Park at the northern end through the Matagamon Gate. A couple of miles later, there was the Matagamon Campground with HOT showers; 3 1/2 minutes for 4 quarters.
The shop did sell blueberry wine and they did have a little restaurant, but we opted for our smoked salmon and veggies and leftover blueberry biscuits.
We had our site on the edge of the East Penobscot River, with a beautiful view. I am so spoiled.
There were tons of dragonflies.
This family of ducks kept coming to visit, clearly they were used to being fed.
This is Mama duck. She and I are having a conversation about teaching her ducklings not to beg for food.
We slept well to the sound of the river rushing by. I got up around midnight. The moon had not yet risen and it was very dark. The Milky Way and the stars were stunning.
Thursday morning I took a walk on the small roads near the campground while Tim did his yoga and stretching by the river.
We continued on Katahdin Woods and Waters Byway through small villages. We passed brooks and streams and ponds and lakes. Apparently, Maine has more lakes and ponds and rivers than any other state.
Tim wanted eggs for breakfast and we found Grindstone Falls Rest Area a pretty place.
We got back to the RV at about lunchtime. We organized and cleaned and repacked gear for another adventure tomorrow night. We went into town in the afternoon to gather a few supplies, mail some postcards, and fill the Jeep with gas.
Then in the evening, we went back to River Drivers Restaurant for dinner. We enjoyed savory lobster bisque and salads. For dessert, they had blueberry pie and I just knew that it would be luscious. I was right and although Tim had refused dessert, when he saw the vanilla ice cream with the warm blueberry pie, loaded with blueberries…he couldn’t resist. The server was smart enough to bring two forks!
781 July 18, 2022 Hiking The Falls At Baxter State Park
We got a slow start this morning. We had planned to take a two-day tent camping trip but the weather for tonight calls for 100% chance of rain. We decided to drive to Baxter State Park and do some hiking.
We were dismayed when the ranger at the gate confiscated our firewood. Apparently, no outside wood may be brought into the park. Oh well…lesson learned!
The guy at Wilderness Edge Campground told us to do to Daicey Pond and hike to the falls. We walked on the Appalachian Trail. The portion that we did was only 1.2 miles each way, but it was studded with roots and rocks and the walking was tedious. I am so careful about where I place my feet. I really am not trying to get hurt out in the wilderness. That being said, I still really enjoyed this hike. The woods were cool and for most of the time, there was a nice breeze. We passed few other hikers and we were all by ourselves when we got to Little Niagara. We scrambled over some rocks and then I sat on the granite outcropping and enjoyed the view.
We hiked further to Big Niagara Falls.
Kind of a curious place for a seagull!
Enjoy Tim’s video!
We stopped at Kidney Pond and walked to the edge of the water.
We ate a late picnic lunch.
We stopped at Stump Pond.
We had a beautiful day in this beautiful place! We had a great day hiking!
This evening for dinner, I made Tim his omelet…I owed him one after forgetting the eggs the other night!
We checked in at Wilderness Edge. We were lucky because first of all, they were able to extend our reservation and we are staying for a week. Secondly, Ranger Dave was on the porch. Tim and Ranger Dave looked at the map for Katahdin National Monument. Ranger Dave gave very clear directions for reaching the park and lots of good advice on things to stop and see.
We settled in to our site and then took off to explore a little. Following Ranger Dave’s instruction, we turned at Dolby Lumber Yard. This particular hint saved us from traveling all the way back to Medway…it was a secret shortcut.
This train had 50 cars. The first 35 cars were filled with wood chips…no doubt headed for a paper mill.
We rode on gravel roads for almost 20 miles and easily found the remote primitive campground, Sandbank Stream. We planned to leave the RV in town and come back on Saturday for an overnight stay.
We drove back the way we came. We had decided on dinner in town and after showering, we went to Scootic In. I had blackened scallops on rice with salad…so good. Tim had clam chowder and chef salad. We noticed that our server was wearing a Jeep T-shirt. This sparked conversation. She is a single mom with a 13-year-old son. The two of them love to take her Jeep out onto the backroads, especially when it is muddy! Before leaving town, we “ducked” her Jeep. This involves leaving a yellow rubber duck with a note. It is meant to create smiles 😊
On Saturday, I drove the Jeep into town and walked on the Michaud Trail.
Upon returning, we packed the Jeep for our next adventure. We took the same route that we had the day before…over two sets of railroad tracks, make a right where the road looks more traveled in 1 ½ miles…keep going until the T and make a left.
Instead of setting up our camp, we took the Jeep on Katahdin Loop Road.
This was our first look of Mount Katahdin. The Appalachian Trail begins at that mountain and meanders some 2,200 miles all the way to Springer Mountain, Georgia.
We walked the short distance to Lynx Pond at Mile 2.
The most stunning views of the day were at milepost 6. We really were wishing that we could have camped right there!
Scenery along the way.
At mile 12, we parked the car and walked to Katahdin Brook Lean-to. We had lunch here and then walked back to the car…we did not hike all the way up to Barnard Mountain.
We took a spur, Oren Falls Road and hiked to the ford in the Wassataquoik Stream.
I took a time out here, sitting cross-legged in a flat and mossy area, just noticing…the breeze, the fresh pine smell, the flowing water, and the tiny pinecones. Can you notice the little tree? It is only ½ inch high…the promise of the future of this forest.
When we got to the car, we saw the first people of the day. We had traveled the entire loop all by ourselves. Here, there was another couple getting ready to hike to the falls with their dog.
We went to Sandbank Stream.
I went to sit by the water. I had seen lots of scat and animal tracks. I was hoping that if I was very still and very quiet, I might see something come to the water to drink. It was a lovely place to be. The water was crystal clear and cool on my feet. The bottom was really silty though and I started to sink! The temperatures are just perfect in Maine in July. The lily pads on the water, the wildflowers in a myriad of colors, the birds calling; an idyllic setting.
Tim was setting up camp when I was finished with my musing. He was having a problem folding the tent out. The hinge was locked. There was another couple camped next door who lent Tim a wrench. He was able to finally get the platform unfolded. He did some damage to the tent and was mad at himself.
Tim took a bike ride and I sat watching 3 male jays squawking and cavorting.
When it was time to cook our omelets for dinner, I realized that I had forgotten the eggs…no worries. I offered Tim a choice of blueberry jam and bread or I could make grilled cheese sandwiches. We hadn’t had grilled cheese in such a long time. I used the whole grain bread and the shredded cheese I was going to use for the eggs and I made it work!
As we prepared for bed, we heard a growling noise coming from the woods some distance away. We heard the noise for more than an hour and more than a dozen times. We are not alone in these woods! A moose or a bear??? Then, it was quiet and peaceful and we slept well.
This morning, Tim did some yoga.
I walked in the woods.
Ranger Dave stopped at the campground and gave us some more advice about places to visit in the area. He and Tim pored over the maps.
We decided to return to Millinocket via the road that was recommended only for high clearance vehicles. It was a pretty ride through thick forest. We stopped to walk at the water’s edge.
All at once the road was flooded…look for a beaver dam! Sure enough right by the road there was a well constructed dam.
Further along, the path became impassable. Look at the impressive structure that the beavers had built to make a pond in the middle of the road!
We took logging roads. Using the Jeep’s GPS we knew we were getting closer to Lake Millinocket and so we drove further. At last, we found a place where we could walk to the edge of the lake. All the bouncing on gravel roads was worth this spectacular view!
Ruffed grouse or partridge.
We stopped to eat breakfast and realized that we were parked right next to a blueberry bush. The berries were just beginning to ripen and we grabbed handfuls to eat.
Another couple had been out gathering blueberries. They stopped to chat. They had a camp on the lake and they invited us to follow them home and she even offered to make fresh blueberry muffins for us. We declined. We were eager to get back and repair the tent and shower!
Tim worked on the tent and after a trip to the True Value Store, the repair was fine enough for now. The tent is working better. Curtis…if you are reading this…Tim definitely thought about using a ten-pound maul to fix it!
Tim cycled to town and back while I worked on the blog and walked the loops in the RV campground.
This evening, we went to River Drivers Restaurant, part of the New England Outdoor Center. This is a swanky resort with lodges and cabins and adventure trips aplenty. The couple we met this morning picking blueberries reommended the restaurant.
I started with a Bluberry Ledges cocktail with bluberry vodka, fresh lemonade. blueberries and mint.
We both had summer salads with blueberries and strawberries and almonds and goat cheese and salmon. The food was excellent!
After dinner, we walked down to the Millinocket Lake. The view of Mount Katahdin was faint and hazy.
We left Bethel Thursday, midmorning. We traveled slowly and gently on Route 2 through Rumford Mills. This town is the site of a very old paper mill. The entire economy of the town is based on this mill.
We stopped for a break at a gas station with a large parking area. Here we saw this horse and carriage…here to fill fuel cans.
We arrived without incident in early afternoon at the Walmart in Bangor. We gathered supplies, took walks, and rode bikes.
There were a few showers and thunderstorms and we were thankful to be settled for the evening.
The Freightliner shop was a short distance away and we arrived before 7am on Friday. We had packed clothes and other stuff for a couple of nights, not knowing how long it might take to get the air ride system repaired.
We took the Jeep to the Bangor Riverwalk on the Penobscot River. This was a great place for me to walk.
Tim rode his bike on the paved path across the bridge to Brewer where the bike trail continued.
We got a call from Freightliner at 8:30. Our rig was repaired; the air bag was successfully replaced! We were very happy!
By 9:30 we were on the road. The coach now drives like a dream. Thanks Jeremiah!
We want to spend time in the wilderness in northern Maine. We had no reservations because we didn’t know how long we might be in Bangor. We got on 95N and while Tim drove, I called Wilderness Edge Campground in Millinocket. They had one site that can accommodate us for five nights, beginning tonight! Hold that spot! We are on our way! Not sure how much cell service or WiFi we will have…will post when we can!
I began the day with the chore of doing laundry. I found a laundromat in town. I find it easier and quicker to just get all the loads done at once.
I started washers and then walked around town for the 30 minutes it took to finish.
I went back to the laundromat and switched clothes to the dryers. I walked a short time but had to return to put more quarters in. In 1 ½ hours, the clothes and sheets and towels were clean and I had finished my morning walk.
We packed our cooler and drove to Mount Blue State Park.
The panoramic views were stunning. We could see the Northern Appalachian Mountains in the distance.
We ate lunch and then hiked the Scenic Trail. More beautiful vistas!
After hiking, Tim was tired. There was an Adirondack shelter at the trailhead. Tim took a nap.
I sat on the bench in front of the shelter.
I had great fun watching about 6 nuthatches. They flitted through the spruce tree gathering insects from the bark. They also pecked at the wood on the roof of the shelter seeking snacks. It was extremely hard to get pictures…these little birds are quick!
Some flora.
What a delightful place for a nap and a rest.
This evening, we went to Sunday River Brewing for dinner. Tim enjoyed a Jamaican stout and I had some crisp hard cider. The food was delicious. We had corn chowder and then brew pub salads.
Another great day in Bethel. If we had to be waiting somewhere, this proved to be a great place to stay. There is still more to see…but tomorrow, we are leaving to get to Bangor for our Friday service appointment.
I have decided that I am fickle. When we are with the kids, I love it at home. When we are in the desert, I love the desert. When we are on the coast, I love the beach. I am also really loving the lakes and rivers and mountains. I am so lucky to be a nomad, loving it wherever we stop and stay!
This quote is from Theodore Roosevelt more than 100 years ago.
