I took my walk to Bernstein Park. I went inside the fence and walked laps on the nice paved path.
There was this library book vending machine…a cool idea!
Tim went to the gym and then he went for his walk while I did laundry. We went to Publix for a few groceries.
We had a quiet day; reading and relaxing.
This evening, we drove into Key West. We parked near Upper Duvall and walked the part of town that we hadn’t yet.
Tim found a restaurant, Mangoes, with “island cuisine.” We had a nice meal.
We ate and then we walked some more.
It was just after sunset and there was a tidal wave of people coming up Duvall from Mallory Square.
We took a quieter side street and Tim saw this store, Lost Boy Creations. We browsed but didn’t buy.
And back to the car.
Today is our last day here. We move tomorrow to the Middle Keys. We had a really good time. We got to see lots of beautiful sunsets, we had some beach time, we did lots of walking and pedaling. We had lots of good meals. We enjoyed our time so much that we have reserved this campsite at Leo’s for the same block of time next year…so until then…goodbye Key West!
Happy 38th Birthday, David!! We love you and you make us very proud.
I woke up to the news that we had ants…tiny itty-bitty ants running along the grout in the tile under the table. Tim had cleaned them up but they were still coming. Before he left for the gym, he put out ant powder by our wheels and power cord and hose and tires…anywhere that the ants might be climbing to access the inside of our RV. While he was gone, I cleaned the floor with white vinegar and put out ant traps. By later in the day, we were not seeing any more ant traffic…hopefully…crisis averted!
I went for my usual walk through the neighborhood. I was about to turn around at my usual place when I saw a sign for a waterfront boardwalk. There was public access through the resort. I followed the signs to a channel.
It was nice to stumble upon something new today!
I got back and tried to plug my charger into my IPAD. I could not make it work. I found a place called Keys Technology just a couple pf miles away. I called and they said they could help. I drove the short distance ad the woman took my IPAD back. I had taken my charger with me and she showed me how a piece of it had broken off and she suspected it was lodged in the port. I waited just a few minutes and for $29.00 I was out the door with my IPAD fixed. I was thankful because that is how I read my library books…I would have been very sad to lose it!
Tim wanted to go for a long bike ride. My legs were tired. I stayed back and read and did some writing. Tim did the 13-mile loop around Key West.
This evening, I grilled chicken and put it on top of greens with kalamata olives and tomatoes and cucumbers and feta. We put our dinner in the cooler and drove to the state park. We had our picnic. There were at least 14 party boats out in the water for their various versions of the sunset cruise. We watched the sun go down. Every night, a different show. From the nearby naval station we could hear a bugle playing Taps…chills!
I took a morning walk along the side street. I walked about a mile, chatting with my mom and then my sister, before turning back. I knew we were riding bikes today and I wanted to save my legs.
We pedaled from Stock Island and made a left toward the beaches. As we rounded the first big bend, the water came into view, variegated blues and greens. The sight of the ocean never fails to take my breath away. As we went along the water, my thoughts turned inward. Today was a great day to be here and to be breathing in this salty air and to be feeling alive. I thought that I always want to retain my sense of awe and wonder. I was reminded to be grateful always for the time that I am granted and the life that I have. Key West is all about excess; excess food and booze and money. This party vibe is contagious and it would be really simple to lose track of values and gratitude.
Our destination was Higgs Beach. We knew that there was an Artisan Market there. We found some fresh tomatoes and mango.
We stopped at an Indian food vendor and sampled the butter chicken. We got that and some pakoras for our dinner tonight.
There was live music.
We found a bakery with some whole grain sourdough and we grabbed the last loaf.
We wandered among the various craft and art stalls…such lovely things…but again, we don’t need things.
This guy was creating art with such wonderful and positive messages. I was going to take a picture of one of his paintings…he asked me not to. He said that people will take a picture of his work and then create a photo and then sell them online…oh so very wrong! I apologized at once. I told him that I loved the positive messages that he was conveying in his work. He called me back and said “Please come and take a picture!” I replied “Only if I might take your picture as well.” With a huge smile, he flipped over the art that he was working on to show to my camera…yes…life is a beautiful adventure!
We stuffed our bike bags with all of our purchases and rode out onto the pier.
We continued along the water, back the way we had come.
We stopped to watch this woman on a standup paddleboard with her dog. I zoomed in to snap a picture and I swear that I could see that dog smiling.
As we made our way back to Stock Island, we saw a fenced in grassy area where at least 5 iguanas were sunning themselves.
Rest time this afternoon.
We enjoyed our Indian dinner and then we drove the Jeep to Key West. We found parking and walked to Mallory Square. This street performer was just beginning his act. He was smart and very funny and quite entertaining. I was taking his picture and he caught me…”Hey lady, are you taking my picture?” and then “Let me pose for you.”
When the show was over we stood with the throng along the seawall and we watched the sun go down. This shared sunset experience made me feel warm and connected in a way that I haven’t in some time.
We walked toward Captain Tony’s Saloon and we could hear good music and so we entered the dark and gritty bar and we each had a drink and we listened to a really accomplished musician. He could really play the guitar, he had a great voice and he played lots of old stuff.
The bar stools had names engraved in the top.
There were also stools for John Candy, Tom Walker, John Prine and others. We aren’t clear if those famous people actually sat here or if they were being remembered.
Andrea ran today in the Atlanta Publix Marathon. She placed 2nd for female in her age group. She is amazing!
Screenshot
I didn’t run a marathon but I did walk 11,733 steps and we did about 9 miles on our bikes…a good and active day!
I walked past the bike shop that fixed another flat tire yesterday…on my bike…so handy to have it right next door!
Then, I walked around to the left along that seawall.
People were wheeling their suitcases down the sidewalk to Key West International Airport. A jet was coming in to land.
We packed lunch and drove to Fort Zachary Taylor. We sat by the water watching all of the boat traffic and the people and the birds and the lizard. I brought a book and did some reading. We had our lunch.
A pilot boat went out and returned with a large barge that was being pushed by a tug. They moved toward the harbor of Key West or perhaps one of the military bases on the island.
It was a very pleasant day to be out on the beach. We enjoyed some shade and then some sun.
We returned to the RV late this afternoon.
We walked across the street to One Love for another Jamaican feast. Tim had jerk chicken with rice and beans and plantains. I had jerk shrimp with sweet potato fires and sauteed cabbage. The food was spicy and yummy!
Earlier in the day, we had seen a sign that the high school baseball team, the Conchs, were playing this evening at 7:30. We dressed in jeans and long sleeves and went out to enjoy the game. The baseball facility was the most gorgeous high school field I have ever seen. There was an amazing concession and the sound system and the music and the announcer and the lights and the electronic scoreboard and the stands and the artificial turf and the way it was all put together…this community clearly loves their baseball team! The Conchs played the Sharks from a private college prep school in Fort Lauderdale. They had a long way to come! I guess the Conchs have to travel a long way to find any opponents as well!
Portraits of the team and the seniors.
A sobering memorial.
We left after the fourth inning. The players were skilled and there was no sloppiness. The kids hustled and demonstrated really positive sportsmanship. We could tell that both teams were well coached and disciplined. The score was Sharks 1 – Conchs 0. We found out this morning that the Key West team lost 4-2.
We love to watch baseball. We love the smell of the hot dogs, the slap of the ball in the glove, and the ping of the ball meeting the bat. When we see a local game, we will often stop to watch. As we do, we are reminded with a pang of lots of years spent watching David play travel ball. He was a wonderful catcher and it was always so fun to go and see him play. We have seen games from Fairbanks, Alaska to Key West, Florida. Love of baseball is something that Tim and David share and now Oliver and Austin are learning the game…the circle of life!
We waited for the last load of laundry to finish and then we packed our lunch and drove the Jeep about 25 miles to Big Pine Key. We left our Jeep in the Winn Dixie parking lot and took our bikes for a ride on Key Deer Blvd. The Key Deer Refuge was established in 1957 for the protection of the endangered Key deer. These are the smallest variety of white-tailed deer and they are found only in the Florida Keys. We have visited here several times. It is a nice change from the hustle and circus that is Key West. It was nice to have a quiet day surrounded by nature. We had a headwind as we went. We pedaled a little more than 4 miles to the end of the pavement.
On the way back, we stopped at Blue Hole. This was a quarry. Limestone was harvested here to build the area roads. When the roads were completed, there was a gaping hole. Vegetation was replanted and nature was allowed to reclaim the property. Today, there was an alligator in the water.
We got back on our bikes and rode to Watson Field. We sat in the dugout and had our picnic.
After lunch, Tim decided to run the bases…rounding second…
And safe at home!
We saw a Key deer run across the road in front of a barreling garbage truck. The deer was safe and I know the truck driver got a close look at that deer!
We got back to the RV and rested a short while before dinner.
This evening, we drove into Key West and parked along the seawall at Smathers Beach. We rode our bikes to an access point and went out into the sand and along a rock jetty. The water was so calm. We watched the sunset.
We cycled to the end of the beach and then back to the Jeep.
We waited for the sky to darken. We wanted to see the planetary alignment. The sky was clear but for a few clouds at the horizon. We had a large open expanse of heaven to look at. We faced the southwest. We were able to see Mars and Jupiter and Venus. There was too much ambient light to see Uranus, Neptune, Mercury, and Saturn but I am fairly certain that they were up there somewhere!
I walked over the bridge and into Key West along the waterfront. I was feeling good and did 1.5 miles before turning back.
We drove back into Key West. We tried to park at the post office but it was $55.00 for the day. We returned to Simonton Street and parked in our favorite lot. The guy there recognizes us now…or maybe he recognizes our Jeep!
We walked to Opal Key Resort. We were a little early for our 12:15 reservation and so was walked along the dock. It was a busy place and there was lots to see.
We walked to Slip 29 to meet the small ferry that would take us to Sunset Key and the Latitudes Restaurant. The small boat took us right past the behemoth cruise ship and into open water.
It was a ten-minute trip. We were escorted to the hostess stand. Tim asked for an indoor table by the huge open doors. We had a great view of the dining patio and the water beyond.
We had a leisurely and scrumptious lunch that began with lobster bisque. Tim had fish tacos and I had a quesadilla stuffed with shrimp and lots of grilled onions and peppers and mushrooms. We were too full for dessert.
We watched as the rain chased the outside diners inside…a frenzy of work for the servers taking care of them. The patio was empty then and we had a really good view! Thanks goodness we opted for an indoor seating!
When we were finished, we walked out to the pier.
A fishing boat had arrived while we were eating and the first mate was fileting the fish. The gulls and the pelicans competed for scraps.
The ferry approached.
We were waiting to board. The woman who was piloting the boat tried to hop across the corner of the dock, she slipped and she began to lose her balance. She was just inches from us. I could see the terror in her eyes as she realized that she was going to fall backward into the water. Tim quickly grabbed her arm and pulled her safely onto the pier. Such rapid thinking and action! The woman was so incredibly grateful and the two of them hugged before Tim let her go.
The ride back.
We got back to Key West and walked though town. We stopped to see the Key West Historic Sculptural Garden. The busts displayed in the garden are of the important historic figures that played a role in the founding, development, and rich history of this island. At one time, Key West was the biggest city in Florida and the first to reach a population of 10,000. Many pioneers worked to make this a place worth visiting.
I’m not sure why I found this amusing…it had rained and this guy had a dripping nose…
Mallory Square is empty during the day.
In a bar on Duval Street there was a great guitarist at one of the bars and there were many people standing to listen. We became part of the crowd.
We stopped at Kermit’s Key Lime Shop and Tim had a frozen chocolate covered piece of key lime pie…I was too full.
We stopped for groceries before heading back to the RV.
Tim had looked at the area on Google and said that if I took 5th Street, I would run into a dirt road that should lead me out to the water. I got to the end of 5th Street and there was a ROAD CLOSED sign and a gate across.
I walked some more and found Bernstein Park.
I saw a sign for a restaurant on the shrimp docks so I thought I would go there and see of the trawlers were in the harbor. I came upon a section of road that had flooded in the rain two days ago and the water was deep and wide. I didn’t want to get me feet wet, I was a long way from home and so I turned back.
Meanwhile, Tim had done his stretching and had been to the gym. He was trying to decide if he was going to walk this morning or go for a bike ride. He decided to bike. He got as far as Berstein Park and got a flat tire. He knew I was out walking and so could not recue him. He walked his bike the mile back to the We Cycle bike repair shop to get his flat fixed. He couldn’t decide whether to walk or ride and he got to do both! How nice to have a bike shop right here!
We had such a busy day yesterday that we elected to have a quieter day today. At 3:15 we left with our dinner packed in a cooler. We parked at the Florida Keys Eco-Discovery Center. This is a relatively new museum and it is free to park and free to enter. Unfortunately, we thought that it was open until 5 but it closed at 4. We had very little time to wander through. The mission of this place is to educate patrons about the ecology of all of the habitats surrounding the Florida Keys including the mangroves, the Marine Sanctuary and the Coral Reef. There were lots of interactive exhibits and everything was extremely informative and well designed.
NOAA was also highlighted. We had passed the NOAA headquarters while driving through Key West. I imagine NOAA is really important to this long strand of islands.
I wish that we had more time to explore this center…maybe another time!
At 4, we left and drove the short distance back to Fort Zachary State Park. We took the time to explore the fort that guarded and protected the harbor. Constructed in 1845 by Irish brick masons, the outer walls are 5 feet thick. Tim estimates that the walls are 15 courses of brick. The fort was held by the Union Army for the entire course of the Civil War. Later it housed munitions and was actively staffed through the Cuban Missile Crisis.
There was another cruise ship at the dock. There is a ship there most every night we have discovered.
We left to fort and took our cooler and chairs and found a nice shady spot along the water. We had dinner while watching the parade of sailboats and party boats all out for their sunset cruises.
We were joined by lots of other people and there was cheering and clapping as the sun slipped down below the horizon…gorgeous!
We made the slow drive through the busy streets of downtown Key West…so many people on bikes and walking and on scooters. We joked about stopping for Baklava. Tim drove down the side street and I got out of the car while he circled the block. Baklava #3 procured. Just as good tonight as it was the very first time!
I walked again in the neighborhood surrounding the campground. It was less noisy there than along the main road.
We packed our lunch and then drove the Jeep into Key West. We found free parking at Higgs Beach. We took our bikes off and cycled to Duvall Street. We bought tickets and went in to see the Key West Butterfly and Nature Conservancy. The antechamber has lots of information about the anatomy and biology of butterflies. We browsed there, reading a few of the displays.
We entered the conservancy through a set of double doors and there were butterflies flitting all around us. I could hear the whisper of their wings. I could feel a tickle as they grazed my arms as they fluttered by.
Tim asked “Do I have a butterfly on my hat?” It stayed there for several minutes as he walked through the beautiful tropical garden.
The habitat is kept at 80 degrees with 80% humidity. The plants are lush and green with a dazzling array of blooming flowers. There must be an accomplished group of scientists that run this operation.
The conservancy gets 300-500 chrysalises from around the world each week. Most of the butterflies were Blue Morphs. They come from Costa Rica. Brown and ordinary when their wings are together…
Stunning iridescent blue when their wings are open.
There are more than 50 varieties of butterflies here.
The butterflies emerge from their cocoons here in a butterfly nursery. It may take 1-2 days for their wings to dry. Once they are able to fly, they are released into the garden. 30 to 50 butterflies are released each day.
There were lots of lovely flowers including many varieties of orchids.
And butterflies love orchids.
There were lots of smaller birds. It was like a scavenger hunt to spot them scattered among the thick emerald foliage.
There was a pair of flamingos, Scarlett and Rhett. It is mating season and they were courting.
Rhett was making a terrific racket trying to get her attention but initially she ignored him.
I absolutely loved this most magical experience. Adults were giggling with delight and wonder. I felt giddy! Several people walked around with butterflies perched on their hats and in their hair. We have been to Key West lots of times and I cannot believe that I never knew about this place before. I could have stayed all day! By the time we reached the end of the tour, the line to get in zigzagged down the sidewalk.
We hopped back on our bikes and rode through the streets of Key West. There was a cruise ship in town and there were people everywhere! We made our way back toward Higgs Beach and rode out onto the pier. We sat watching the water.
We put the bikes back on the Jeep and drove over to Fort Zachary Taylor State Park. We found a nice shaded table near the water and had our picnic.
We went back to the campground to rest and shower.
This evening, we had reservations at Bagatelle’s. The very first time that we came to Key West, we went to Bagatelle’s for dinner. Now, its is part of our tradition to have dinner here. We always ask for a table on the second floor balcony. It is fun from there to watch Duval Street and all the happenings and people.
We had a delicious bottle of UNO Malbec, mussels to share and then Tim enjoyed Swordfish and I chose lobster fettuccini with spinach and grilled tomatoes…outstanding…all of it!
After dinner, Tim was on a mission. He led me directly to Baklava where we purchased two more pieces of that amazing baklava. We sat on the bench outside the shop and ate until there was nothing left…licking our sticky fingers. We were full and we needed to walk.
We wandered around Key West.
We stopped several times to stand on the sidewalk and listen to live music.
I woke up, saw that it was light outside and hurried to get out of bed. I knew that the forecast for today was for wind and rain and I wanted to get my walk in first thing. I was brushing my teeth when the rain began. It was light at first and the weather app showed that there would be a break…but sometimes the weather app lies! It poured all morning!
I had a list of things I was saving for a rainy day. I did a bunch of stuff on the computer, sending emails, and making phone calls. Then, I started to work to gather everything I need to do our taxes.
Tim got a break in the rain at around 3:30 this afternoon. he was eager to get outside. He took his bike and went for a ride but only after I promised to rescue him if he got caught in a downpour.
I didn’t want to quit in the middle of getting taxes ready and so I worked until 4pm.
Tim still wasn’t back and so I did some cleaning as well.
It was apparently very wet out there! Tim sent several texts while he was out riding.
Tim biked around the entire island of Key West…13 miles. In many places, the water was higher than his bike pedals and it was hard for him to discern where the curbs and sidewalks were. There were several cars and golf carts stalled put and abandoned. Tim stopped once at Truman Waterfront Park to wring the water out of his socks. He got back home and his shoes and socks were sopping wet. He didn’t think that I would have enjoyed this little adventure…thank goodness I was working on taxes…never thought I would actually sat that!
I made a salad with beets and oranges and greens and I used the special orange olive oil and orange balsamic vinegar. I added some fresh mozzarella and some nuts and chicken. It was pretty tasty!
I was glad to have a rainy day and so much to occupy my time. It was very productive! No one wants to do taxes on a bright and sunny day!
I walked in the nearby neighborhood this morning; through the streets with the chickens and the roosters. The houses were packed tightly together but everything was neat and tidy.
This campground had been renovated and we like it here so much better than we did years ago!
We spent the day waiting for Tim’s bike to be repaired. He had his cables and gears messed up. He has been riding this way for weeks now. There is a bike rental and repair shop adjacent to the campground and so this was a good opportunity to get things fixed. He took the bike on Saturday and we were hoping it would be ready so that we could ride today. We waited until lunchtime and then decided to walk across the campground to a little hole-in-the wall food truck. We had access via a small alley. One Love, serves Jamaican cuisine. I ordered mahi tacos and Tim had a tuna poke bowl. We listened to Jamaican music as we waited. The food was perfectly seasoned and flavorful. We had a delicious meal!
Tim went to check on his bike after lunch…still no progress…except for the promise that it would be ready before 5pm. We relaxed and read and sat outside.
Tim finally got his bike back and it rides like a dream…like a new bike!
This evening, we drove to Key West. We found parking in a public lot for $30.00. We had to return by 9am Monday to get our car or have it towed. We were fairly certain we would be back by then!
We walked up Duval Street.
We went to one of our old favorites, Smokin’ Tuna, but when we got there, it was The Alamo. They still had a cool outdoor seating area and live music and so we sat and had a drink. We didn’t get food because the reviews were not that favorable and because we had been wanting Smokin’ Tuna!
We walked to Mallory Square for the Sunset Celebration. We watched the street performers and the rest of the spectacle that is Key West.
Cruise ship departing at sunset.
We walked to the old Custom’s Building. The masonry work here is outstanding and we always come to take a look.
We strolled further along the docks and actually saw the sun go down from another quieter place. I took a few pictures and then put my camera away and just watched.
We were hungry and so we left Mallory Square with the throng of other hungry people also leaving. We tried Salty Frog’s. We found a table and waited for a while. We looked at the menu, ready to order when a server happened by, and listened to the live music. The restaurant was quite obviously slammed and we finally decided to find another place to eat. We went to a Cuban place where we had eaten before but there was a line of people waiting. We passed a bunch of ice cream places, ice cream is Tim’s kryptonite, and when we passed a guy holding a huge banana split, there was a moment when Tim almost opted for ice cream for dinner.
Around the corner, we found Bruschetta’s, an authentic Italian restaurant. We got the last table on the sidewalk. It was a fun place to sit. We were right at the maître d’ stand. The guy in charge of seating, who may have been the owner, did not speak any English. He held up his phone and he had us speak into it and then he used Google translate. It was kind of comical to watch him interact with patrons. Frank Sinatra sang to us through the speakers. Tim had chicken marsala with homemade pasta and I had mussels in the most lemony and garlicy sauce.
Our young, Italian server, asked us where we were traveling from. We told her how we lived in our RV and traveled and how we considered ourselves very lucky to be doing what we do. Her reply surprised us. She said: “Yes, you are lucky and good for you for using your luck. So many people are lucky and they don’t use it!” It made us think and yes, we know people who are lucky and don’t use it. We have never heard it put quite this way…perspective!
Kyle called to Facetime as we were paying for dinner and then we walked across the street to chat. As I was talking, Tim wandered away. He soon came back with a container with two pieces of baklava nestled inside. He had gone into Baklava, The Art of Dessert. Inside there were about one hundred different kinds of beautiful desserts. He selected the baklava and brought it to me. It was the most amazing baklava I have ever had. Flaky and nutty and dripping with honey. Our fingers were sticky when we finished and we were full!
We walked around Key West and then to the Jeep. Always classic rock at Hog’s Breath Saloon.
