We have spent the last several days shopping and cleaning and preparing for our guests. Kyle and Allison will arrive this evening. We will leave Anchorage tomorrow and travel about 300 miles to Valdez. We plan to be there several days. Then, we plan to go to Denali. I know that our time together will pass very quickly. I am not sure that I can promise to post a blog every day. If I don’t…no worries! I will catch up when I can.
In the meantime…we will be having the very best adventure shared with loved ones!
Happy Birthday Allison!!! We will celebrate you when you get here!
This morning after completing our exercise, we left Kenny Lake.
We passed dozens of cyclists “Fighting cancer every mile.”
We drove to Matanuska Glacier State Recreation Area. We were able to find a nice camping spot tucked into the trees.
After a quiet time, we went out and hiked the 1-mile Edge Nature Trail with views of the glacier.
We hopped in the Jeep, eager to find a road that would take us more directly to the glacier…but there is no public access. There are two tour companies that take groups out to walk on the ice. The fees are $150.00 per person. Since Tim was able to walk out onto the glacier at Kennicott for free yesterday, this seems fairly unreasonable. We decided to be satisfied with the long-distance view!
We took our quinoa bowls out to the viewing area and had a picnic there.
The next several days are all about getting ready for company. Kyle and Allison arrive on Saturday evening.
On Monday, Claudia and I took a nice morning walk. We said our goodbyes to the Harbers and then we packed up and we moved on to Kenny Lake. We stayed at the RV park there. We spent the day catching up on laundry.
On Tuesday morning, I took a short walk and then we left in the Jeep to travel toward Kennicott and McCarthy.
It was a beautiful morning. We passed the Tibetan/Alaska Yak Farm. Yak wool is used to make yarn and then woolen products. We have also seen yak meat for sale at the store in Delta Junction.
These green fields and bales of hay seem out of place here…must be yak food!
The drive began on paved roads and then past Chitina, the road was gravel. This road used to be the rail bed for the trains that would move the ore and copper from the mines to Valdez.
McCarthy Road took us into the southern entrance to Wrangell St. Elias National Park.
We crossed over the Kuskulana River.
This trestle bridge was part of the rail system and has long been abandoned. It appears to be collapsing.
The scenery was incredible. It was a little hazy but we were able to see the mountains.
The 90-mile drive from the campground took us about 2 ½ hours. We parked the Jeep and crossed the pedestrian bridge where a shuttle was waiting to take us to Kennicott. We had come here during our last trip to Alaska. We had wandered the main street of McCarthy and then we had walked through all of the restored buildings of the historic mining town.
5 years ago, we had started to hike the Root Glacier trail when we realized that we were ill prepared. We did not have the proper footwear, nor water, nor bear spray and so we didn’t complete the hike. Our goal today was to get to the toe of the glacier. After hiking more than 2 miles and seeing other groups of people out on the glacier, Tim decided as we walked that he definitely wanted to hike out onto the ice. I did not feel as self-confident. I was just so happy to be there and see it and I really had no desire to walk out. I found a ridge where I could sit and watch him and he descended the steep slope and stepped out onto the glacier. Another couple worked their way down the trail and joined him. The threesome traversed across the crunching ice.
From where I sat, I could see the rushing glacier melt running from beneath the terminus. As I sat in the quiet, I could hear the tinkle of gravel falling down the hill and splashing into the stream. I could feel the cool breeze as the wind carried the chill across the ice and the warm sunshine on my face. I sat, trying to take it all in. Tim was thrilled to be out there and I was proud of him. We are out here, living our best lives.
We hiked back into Kennicott and found a food truck. We enjoyed an early supper and sat with the couple from New Hampshire that Tim had met out on the glacier.
We caught the shuttle to McCarthy and then instead of waiting for the second shuttle to take us back to the parking lot, we hiked down the hill.
Tim stopped and filled his water bottle at the spring.
It was a long ride back to the RV. We stopped to look at the changing light on the rivers and mountains.
Landslide!
Fish wheel.
We stopped to see Liberty Falls.
We didn’t get back until after 8pm.
It was a 13-hour day. We had driven almost 200 miles, hiked more than 6 and I had 22,000 steps! We were tired but so happy. It was an amazing day and worth every bit of effort.
On Saturday morning, I walked laps at the Grizzly Lake Campground. This is a really nice place to take a walk. The mountain showed up completely different today.
The loons were out on the water with their two fluffy brown chicks. They were some distance away and it was hard to get a good family picture!
The campground owner has a nice greenhouse where she had harvested beautiful fresh butter lettuce and spinach. They have chickens. They also have two enormous white furry dogs. Happy is the 5-month-old baby. He must weigh about 135 pounds. He is rambunctious and he is a thief. He has taken apples, oranges, balls, and a broom from campers. He almost stole our dinner. He took the water bowl and food bowl and treat from the poodle next door. He is friendly though!
We left Grizzly Lake and traveled back toward Glenallen. We saw a porcupine munching on the roadside vegetation and we saw a moose cross the road ahead of us.
View of mountain from Glenallen.
We called Salmon Grove Campground at Copper Center and they could accommodate us for the weekend. We stopped in Glenallen for some fuel and groceries and wine. We called Lee and Claudia and told them we were coming.
We enjoyed a nice visit and we grilled some steaks.
After dinner, Tim and I took a walk in Copper Center.
Sunday morning, Claudia and I got a good walk in.
Later in the morning, we followed Lee and Claudia in their Jeep for an adventure on the Klutina River Trail. It was such a pretty ride!
We drove for about 21 miles on dirt and gravel road and over streams and through muddy puddles. We stopped and had our lunch at the airstrip.
Lee did a little fishing.
Claudia and I put our feet in the water. It was really cold and felt delicious. It was more than 70 degrees out today.
It was slow driving and it took about an hour to go the first 8 miles back through the muddiest puddles. The view though was worth it!!
We got back in late afternoon, tired and happy.
Lee and Claudia drove into Glenallen and came back with pizzas for dinner. We had another great meal shared with good friends.
Tomorrow, we plan to move on to see the Edgerton Highway.
We were up early and had our coffee by the campfire. We sat quietly, just the two of us, enjoying this moment.
Max and Marion got up and by that time we were packed and ready to leave. They will be traveling the same route that we are and so it is possible that we will see them again. I hope so!
We drove the 42 slow miles back to the main road and then just another 7 to our campground. We didn’t see wildlife this morning.
We did see beautiful views of the Wrangell Mountains.
We tried to eat our breakfast by a lake but the bugs were infuriating! We quit and got back in the car.
We got back to Grizzly Lake before noon. We spent a quiet day. This is the view from our RV.
Mama duck had all her ducklings onshore for some afternoon quiet time.
The loons sang to us all afternoon.
This evening we grilled peppers and onions and fish. We have never had fish tacos in such a beautiful place!
The sun was shining when we got up. I took my morning walk along Nabesna Road. After the rain yesterday, the whole world smelled like Christmas trees.
I walked to the Slana Ranger Station. I shared our pictures of yesterday’s stream conditions.
Slana Alaskans Unite posted this sign.
Nabesna Road was built so that there would be easy access to a goldmine. The road was built over sacred and burial grounds of the native peoples that had lived here for eons. The Athabascans who made this place their home, took only what they needed from the land. The miners wanted the road so that they could harvest and profit from the gold. What a clash of cultures and values.
The phone in this booth actually had a dial tone and a phone directory. Just another reminder about where we were.
Cinquefoil.
Pale Indian Paintbrush.
Bog Stars.
We moved the RV to Grizzly Lake Campground and we were lucky to get an electric site right beside the water. This is a really pretty place.
We could hear the haunting calls of a loon across the lake.
We watched a mama duck and her 9 ducklings. The little ones were so cute. They were gangly and still awkward. I could have stayed and watched them all day!
An old wringer on the dock to help dry your wet things!
We prepared for an overnight tent camping trip. We drove back to Nabesna Road. The low clouds were lifting and we began to see mountains.
Ptarmigan running!
We stopped at Kendesnii Campground at Twin Lakes and walked the interpretive trail. We found several places where we could walk to the water. There were lots of ducks here as well!
Yesterday, we were not able to travel to the end of the road because the stream crossing at Lost Creek was too treacherous. We decided to check and see what it looked like. What a difference a day makes. The water had receded by about half. The current was still fast. Tim went out with his walking stick to gauge the depth of the water and the slope of the edges. There was a couple in a pickup truck. They too wanted to cross but they were also unsure. Behind us, an Overlander, a huge 4WD camper, pulled up. Once Tim saw the bigger more capable vehicle, he knew that we were going to try to cross. There is safety in numbers. If someone got stuck, there was now enough machine power to pull them out.
The Overlander passed easily through and we followed without difficulty. The pickup followed us and we waited to be sure that they made it safely.
At the next creek there was a culvert. We were in the lead. As we approached, I saw a wolf scramble from the gravel streambed and up the slope. It went around a tree and disappeared. Tim stopped the car and we got out to look. We didn’t look too hard. Wolves are normally shy and they are very rarely seen in the wild. They run from trouble, unless; they have a fresh kill nearby, have the pack with them, or have babies. It was a cool thing to see!
There was another precarious looking stream crossing but the three men conferred and they made the decision to try. The Overlander went first and we followed. It was not as hard as it looked and all three vehicles passed through.
We were so glad that we forged the streams. The scenery was incredible as we traveled further along.
We passed a few homesteads. These people definitely live off the grid.
If I lived all the way out here, I would be grateful to have a plane to get in and out!
We made it to MM 42, the end of the Nabesna Road. There is a trail here to the Rambler Mine. We all prepared to hike the short distance. We went only a few steps and encountered a huge puddle in the middle of the trail. The guys tried to find a way around it but it was impassable.
We all headed back the way we had come. The couple in the pickup truck had their trailer parked along the road before the stream crossings. They were headed back to their rig. We bid them farewell and safe travels. They were going to cross the streams on their own.
Max and Marion from Vancouver were traveling in the Overlander and planned to camp out overnight. We found a pretty site along a creek where our Jeep and their rig could comfortably camp. We enjoyed such a pleasant evening. We had a fire and we shared some snacks. The conversation revolved around our travels and our families. We had much in common. We stayed up until after 10:30pm. It was still light out and I had no idea it was that late!
We had drenching rain again this morning. I went for my walk wearing Tim’s yellow raincoat and I carried an umbrella. We didn’t get any exercise yesterday so I was determined to get out there. I walked on the bike bath along Glenn Highway. On the way back up the hill, the wind was in my face and the umbrella was useless…I was wet but I did get a 3-mile walk done.
I went with the Jeep into the small village of Glenallen to get a few groceries and a bundle of firewood.
Tim drove the RV in the steady rain to Slana. It was a slippy, sloppy, goopy, soupy day. The good thing about all this rain is that the wildfire danger is low. After last year, that is a blessing. for those that live and work here.
We stopped at the ranger station for Wrangell-St. Elias National Park. We wanted to inquire about road conditions. It has been raining and all the streams and creeks and rivers and ponds and lakes are overflowing. There are three stream crossings on Nabesna Road. The ranger said that they were flowing fast and that we should use our best judgement before crossing any of them.
We were headed to Hart D Ranch to camp. When we arrived, there was no one at the office. The place appeared to be deserted. No one answered the phone. We decided to back into a site and wait for someone to come. All at once, an older woman popped out of the door. She told us that the campground was closed. She had broken her leg and she was not open for the season. We were not welcome to stay. We asked if we might leave the RV for a short time while we looked for another place to stay??? NO! Go park at the Post Office!
So, we turned around and parked at the tiny log cabin Slana Post Office.
We called and found a place to move the RV tomorrow.
It rained and rained. We rested and then we decided to go looking.
We ended up driving on Nabesna Road; doing reconnaissance. We were looking for a spot to camp overnight if the weather improves tomorrow.
The rain stopped and we had a few spots of sunshine. The clouds lifted just a little. Wrangell-St. Elias National Park is America’s largest park. It is more than 13 million acres. It is accessible only be two roads. Nabesna Road is the northern entrance to the park. It is very remote and not well traveled. That makes it even more appealing for us! We know that there are gorgeous mountains out there; some of the highest in North America and we want to see them!
The first 15 miles of Nabesna Road is paved. It has lots of potholes and it is kind of like a video game where you have to avoid the obstacles. Then, the road was gravel with potholes. There were lots of trees and lots of lakes and creeks. We saw a ptarmigan and a couple of squirrels.
We got to the Trail Creek stream crossing and it was okay. I took video while Tim drove through.
At Lost Creek, the current was muddy and swift and we could not tell how deep it was or how steep the bank on the other side might be. We did not cross.
We did find several promising campsites and we will return tomorrow for the rest of the Nabesna Road adventure!
We had some sprinkles last night that chased us into the tent early. No matter, I had the Mary Carey book to read! Then, the rain stopped and it was so silent!
There were road crews working nearby yesterday in the evening. They stored their equipment at the beginning of the trailhead.
This morning we had mostly cloudy skies. This is as near as a sunrise picture as we get. The sun actually rose at 4:30 this morning.
Some last pictures of the mountains.
We went back the 16 miles to Tangle Lakes Campground and unpacked our gear and reorganized. Then, we got the RV ready to go. We need a full service campground tonight. The tanks are both empty and full. The hamper was full. I had days of blogs that needed to be loaded and published. We turned onto Richardson Highway. Much of our drive was heavily forested with some pretty ponds and lakes. We traveled through the foothills of the Alaska Range to Glenallen.
Once again, we had to wait for a pilot car to take us through an area of road construction. Yikes…yes this is the road…
It was in this section that we had to go through a soft spot. We were going uphill so Tim knew he shouldn’t stop. We could hear crashing behind us. The fridge door had opened and contents had spilled out. I was able to shove stuff back in. Thankfully, nothing was broken and the refrigerator latch was still intact. There was a very large container of grape tomatoes…everywhere! We stopped at the next turnout to get things put away correctly and then we were on our way again.
We were able to get fuel in both vehicles. We stayed at Northern Nights Campground. We spent the afternoon checking things off the list. Lee and Claudia were only 15 miles away. They arrived this evening with pronghorn tenderloin, new baby potatoes, a wonderful salad, and a bottle of wine. We feasted and chatted and the lovely evening passed quickly. What a treat to have visitors! Thanks to both of you for all of your generous hospitality!
We hope tomorrow to travel to Nabesna Road where we plan to have another adventure. We understand that the weather might be uncooperative and so we will modify our tentative plans accordingly!
We woke to cloudless blue skies and sunshine. I do believe that these rainy days make us appreciate the sunny days so much more! I took an easy walk because I knew we were going to hike the Tangle Ridge Trail.
This was a great hike with spectacular views of the world below. The elevation gain was about 300 feet, but the climb was gradual and well worth it.
We could see the campground and the RV.
We could see the peninsula where the moose and her baby were hiding and the tangle of water.
Higher still we could see Landmark Gap where the caribou will migrate.
We reached a large open space where we just stood and tried to take it all in.
I try to notice the little things.
Ahead, we could see what looked like a manmade pile of rocks. Curious, we followed a narrow trail through high brush. The rocks were arranged in a labyrinth. The rocky path was packed and worn. I am not sure how long it has been there. We are in the Tangle Lakes Archeological District. There are hundreds of ancient sites here that are protected. Maybe this has been here for a couple of years or maybe thousands. I walked through the spiral slowly, thinking of joy, kindness, love, living in the moment, blessing, and gratitude. What a beautiful place to consider and reflect on all the goods things in my life. I also love the idea of following in the footsteps of all who have gone before me here with a similar mission. We never know what we will stumble upon.
On our way back, we scared a family of ptarmigan with babies. The adult birds were distraught and flew in short bursts further and further down the trail as they tried to keep track of their chick who had all become separated when they felt threatened by our presence.
We decided to pack for another overnight. Again, we headed west, awestruck by the difference in the scenery.
This was Landmark Gap today!
We thought we might try the Glacier Gap ORV Trail. It was very slick and muddy and then we got to a dicey looking stream crossing and we could see a muddy incline on the other side. We aborted and turned back.
We drove further on the Denali Highway. The Alaska Range was visible and in full glory!
We drove to McClaren Summit at 4,086 feet. This is the second highest highway summit in Alaska. The highest is at 4,800 feet; Atigun Pass on the Dalton Highway.
We took the southern trail toward Oscar Lake at MM37. This trail follows an esker. This is a gravel ridge left behind by glaciers long ago.
We passed several beautiful campsites but continued on. We were disappointed to see that the Alaska Range was receding from view and we could see a challenging section of road up ahead.
We decided to go back and camp closer to the highway.
We set up and Tim made a fire and we took turns walking and resting.
We had expansive views of the McClaren River Valley and we watched the Alaska Range as the sun and clouds moved across the sky.
We could see Mt. Hayes and the McClaren Glacier beneath it.
We could see the Eureka Glacier to the east.
I was initially disappointed that we settled so early in the day. I had wanted to travel further on the Denali Highway and see more. But this was a wonderful place to just sit and be. Sometimes Tim has to quell my need to see more, more, more!
Last night I realized that my books did not properly load to my iPad. I thought that I had nothing to read and then I remembered that my good friend, Vicki, had given me a book by Mary Carey; Alaska-NOT a Place for a Woman. I started it last night and read a good portion of it today. I love to read a book that is written in the setting in which we are traveling!
The rain stopped after we settled for bed last night. This morning, it was raining again. I put on Tim’s big yellow raincoat, determined to take a good walk. There were paths through the campground and down to the lake. As I was walking toward the entrance, Tim was coming the other way. We walked together to the bridge over the Tangle River.
It was wet and cloudy and chilly but we were undeterred as we packed for an overnight trip in the Jeep. The remainder of the Denali Highway is rough and not great for the RV. So, we left it behind and began our journey.
Our first stop was at the Tangle Lakes Lodge where we were able to purchase two bundles of firewood.
Landmark Gap came into view. The Native American peoples who inhabited this land for 10,000 years, hunted caribou in this pass. Caribou from the Nelchina herd will migrate here in the next couple of weeks. Sometimes, hundreds of caribou can be seen here as early as July, but we saw none today.
We turned into the Landmark Gap Trailhead. It started as a mud puddle.
We drove about 3 miles north toward the gap. The road was rough and it took about an hour to make our way. The view was spectacular even on this rainy day. If the weather had been better and it had been later in the day, we might have stayed here to camp.
We made our way back to the road and continued west. We passed McClaren Summit at over 4,000 feet. It was 46 degrees and misty and yucky.
The McClaren River.
A palsa. This was a frozen mound of ground. When the highway was cut, the palsa was damaged and collapsed. There are still layers of peat and frozen ground in the remaining portion.
Then, it began to rain steadily. We pulled over to rest but the weather didn’t improve. We decided to keep heading west in an effort to find blue skies. At MM59, we quit. We turned around and headed back.
I was driving. After a couple of minutes, the warning light for the right front tire came on and read low tire pressure…9…inflate tire to 37…
So, I pulled over and Tim got out the tire gauge. Fortunately, the tire was properly inflated. We drove on and the warning light went off and the tire pressure read correctly. False Alarm! SHEW!!!
As we traveled east, the road was dry at Landmark Gap and it was not raining. We decided to try a campsite not far from the highway that had a nice view of the pass. Tim made a fire and I rested. It was dripping rain and chilly on the knoll. I tried to have a good attitude but I was damp. We made a deal that if it was not raining at 4:30, we would set up the tent and stay. We packed up and returned to the RV. It was disheartening but it is supposed to be fun!
We made our salads and soup and enjoyed bring warm and dry.
As we were eating, we saw the eagle return. He dipped into the lake near the boat ramp and lifted off.
I took an after-dinner walk. When I got down to the lake, I saw the beaver swimming.
Later in the evening a moose cow and calf were eating at the lakeside.
