1022 August 25, 2023 Now What???

We needed to get back to our routines and so we took time this morning to exercise.  While Tim did his stretching, I walked into town.  It was very foggy and Tim had me wear his bright yellow raincoat so that I would be more visible!  I did 2.5 miles and when I got back, Tim had finished. 

We used the sani-dump and then by 8:30, we were off!

We stopped at the coffee shop on our way.

Just as we merged onto Route 43E/S, the sun crept out and the fog began to lift.

As we traveled there was intermittent dense fog.  We were in moose country.  As much as we love seeing wildlife, this was not the place to run into a moose!

The fog was finally gone at 11am.

We were on a 4-lane divided highway; nondescript and unremarkable. 

We had a small bird strike high on the passenger side of the windshield. It did not appear to cause any consequences to the RV.  I am not sure about the poor bird…

Today we had lots of long miles for reflection.  This trip has certainly been fraught with lots of mechanical problems.  This is all part of the adventure; though not the fun part.  But this trip was filled with highlights.  We loved our time with Kyle and Allison and a favorite memory is of the four of us sitting on the top of the Lulu Belle watching the glacier calve.  We were enthralled by the salmon and the sea lions at Valdez.  We were lucky to spend time with Lee and Claudia.  The trip on the Fjord Express to Juneau was great fun.  Our adventure on the Dalton Highway was everything that we hoped it would be.  Seeing a musk ox walking in the creek was amazing.  I was glad Tim had the opportunity to walk on Root Glacier in Kennicott…a once in a lifetime experience.  It was really special to watch grizzly mama and her three cubs at Denali.  Nabesna Road was a cool place rooftop tent camping. 

Alaska is my favorite place to visit.  The unparalleled beauty, the wildlife, and most appealing, the remote, vast wildness.

At nearly noon, we were about 30 miles from Edmonton when the engine light came back on.  Finally, we were near a big city where we could get good help.  We pulled into a gas station and Tim called the Cummins Dealer.  The guy told us to come right in.  The technician put the computer on the RV and did a scan.  Our exhaust system was still NOT happy.  Cummins could see us on Wednesday of next week. 

They did refer us to the Freightliner across the street.  This place works day and evening shifts from 6am-10pm seven days a week.  They could see us tomorrow.  That was the good news.  The “bad” news was that we had to leave the RV there.  We quickly packed and from the parking lot, we found a Holiday Inn nearby. 

We were wiped out and more than a little disappointed.  But we were safe and had a place to stay and all will be okay. 

We went out for dinner and then went to the grocery to get some things for coffee in the morning.

1021 August 24, 2023 Valleyview

We spent the night in the NAPA parking lot without incident.  At 7am Tim purchased DEF and windshield wiper fluid and filled the reservoirs.  We stopped at a local coffee shop and then we were on our way.

On the east side of Fort Nelson, there was a large industrial area with oil refineries.  There were lots of Conoco Philips sites and camps for petroleum workers.

The commercial area gave way to forest.  After yesterday’s safari-like ride, today was much less entertaining.  The ride was very consistent with straight, wide, and decent rolling road with trees lined alongside.  There were pockets of smoke that became thicker and more pervasive as we traveled and the smell of smoke was strong.

I really don’t like it when we have to follow a logging truck.  It gives me the heebee jeebies.   This guy was loaded with three long trailers filled with long and heavy logs.  It took a long time before we could safely pass him.

These are the last vestiges of the fireweed plants.  They produce a cotton like fuzz that are actually the burst seed pods.  The seeds have been released in the wind to bloom another day.

We passed Fort Saint John and Inland Truck and Equipment.  The engine light is still off and we are moving well.  So, we called to cancel our appointment for tomorrow and on we went. 

We drove over the Peace River.

We passed a lot of farm country this afternoon. 

We passed Dawson Creek and the end of the Alaska Highway.

We left British Columbia and entered Alberta, gaining another hour in the process.

Yesterday Tim drove 420 miles and today he did 435 miles before stopping in the small town of Valleyview.  It was dinnertime when we arrived at the Municipal Park.  We have water and electric and it was $30.00 CAD or $22.00 US dollars. 

Every mile brings us closer to home!

1020 August 23, 2023 Just Breathe

We skipped our morning exercise and we were on the road by 7:15am.  The grass was heavy with dew.  There were patches of low-lying fog above the lakes, in the treetops, and among the mountains. 

The views were so pretty.  There were blue skies and lots of sunshine.  We were trying this morning to be grateful for all the good things as we made our way.  Every kilometer takes us closer to home and to help.  I was trying to keep good track of exactly where we were.  I wanted to be able to have a mile marker if we needed to call for help. 

I saw a porcupine by the road.  His quills were almost indistinguishable from the tall grasses that surrounded him; but I caught movement and watched him plow through the vegetation.

We stopped for on board propane in Watson Lake.  Now, no matter what, we will be warm and we can have hot showers!

We had cell service and so Tim called Inland Truck and Equipment in Fort Saint John.  They were able to agree to see us on Friday morning to run a scan.  Unfortunately, they could not schedule us for service until September 5^th.  One step at a time…

After Watson Lake, we passed from the Yukon into British Columbia.  This is where we saw black bear #1.  We didn’t notice him until we were passing him.

We could see black bear #2 from a distance.  We were able to pull over to watch him.  He was munching on the roadside grass.  He turned then and walked toward us.  They say that if an animal changes his behavior in response to your presence, then it is time to leave.  Tim guessed that this bear was large enough that he could have risen on his hind legs and put his paws on Tim’s window ledge.  He was a big guy!  Was he looking for food from us?  He wasn’t at all aggressive nor was he timid.

At km900, we saw a herd of 18 wood bison along both sides of the highway.  It was a mixed group of mamas and babies and we believe that the largest of them all was a bull.  The highway sign indicated that the bison range extended 180 km along the highway. 

70 kilometers later, we saw a sow and her two tiny cubs. 

Just before noon, I looked over at the dashboard and the check engine light was OFF!  Now we happy again.  We were afraid to be hopeful.  Tim’s watch told him that it was time to stand up.  My watch told me it was time to practice mindfulness and breathe.  I said that we should just keep driving!

At km800 we saw another smaller bear.

At km750 we saw a large male bison.

We stopped for lunch at the Muncho Lake Viewpoint.

Shortly after that, we saw stone sheep in the road.

We stopped again at another scenic turnout along the lake.  I couldn’t resist and had to take off my shoes and socks and I waded into the really cold glacial water.

This view was the picture of the day.

We saw a pair of loons as they came up from a deep dive.  They noticed us and dove again.

This is the most beautiful portion of the Alaska Highway.  This is the same stretch where we saw lots of wildlife on our way to Alaska 2 months ago.  This part of the road extends 200 miles through the Northern Rockies and it is simply spectacular; the lakes and rivers, the imposing mountains, the winding and rolling route and today we had perfect weather.

We stopped to rest for awhile at the Racing River.

We saw a caribou and then another.

We saw more stone sheep.

3 more caribou.

We saw another pair of caribou as we passed Summit Lake; a mama and a baby.

There was a brief rain shower and then just the hint of a broad rainbow.

The pavement then was brand new and smooth for a long distance.

We saw a smaller back bear.

Some stormy clouds.

We could see in the distance a brownish haze and there was the faint smell of smoke as we approached Fort Nelson.  There are many wildfires in the areas to the north.  The entire population of Yellowknife, some 20,000 people, were evacuated last week as the fire encroaches on the town. 

There was roadwork and we waited for and then followed the pilot car.

We saw 2 more black bears, one on each side of the road.

Then, we saw black bear #10 a cub, by the edge of the forest.

We arrived in Fort Nelson at around 5:30pm.  We filled the RV with diesel and then we headed to Napa to get more DEF.  Napa closed a little early today and so we got none.  We decided to go the Triple G Hideaway for dinner and then we returned to Napa where we will overnight so that we can get our DEF before leaving town in the morning. 

Today we experienced a rollercoaster ride of emotions.  From frustrated and worried to very cautiously optimistic.  We have been trying to keep our spirits up.  We offer reassurance to one another that we have got this.  We stay positive.  We try to control what we can and we hope for the best.  So far, that engine light is still off.

1019 August 22, 2023 On The Road Again

We woke up this morning very hopeful that today would be the day that the parts came.  We behaved as if this was true.  I got laundry going first thing.  We had some errands we wanted to accomplish before leaving Whitehorse.  Tim rode his bike into town.  I went to get fresh drinking water and while I was there, filling our 5-gallon jug, Reid texted.  “Great news!  Your parts are here.”  I called Tim and picked him up at the park.  We met Reid at the campground where he spent the first hour installing the new DEF injector and all the associated gaskets and seals.  The second hour, he ran the computer on the RV to check for any codes. All was clear! 

We were elated!  Within 30 minutes, we were ready to roll.  We left Whitehorse at 3:15pm. 

So being stuck in Whitehorse wasn’t so bad.  We found something to do each day.  We enjoyed the hiking and biking and walking opportunities.  There were nice restaurants and there was a great grocery store.  We loved the Community Market and we found a very nice produce stand.  I know that there were day trips we might have enjoyed and there is live theater and a movie cinema as well.  Above all, we were able to find someone to repair the RV.  We were actually quite lucky to be “stuck” in Whitehorse.

We made a stop in Teslin at the machine shop.  The mechanic there was the first one to help us a week and a half ago when the check engine light came on.  We wanted to stop and say thank you and we took him a blueberry pie!

All was well for the first 150 miles; then, the check engine light came on…again…

Tim stopped to check to see if there were any loose pieces on the repair.  He could find nothing.  We had no cell service so we couldn’t call the mechanic. 

We stopped for the night in a large gravel turnout by the Swift River.   We discussed our options.  We decided that in the morning, we would just get up and keep driving south, toward Edmonton.  No matter what happens next, we will figure it out.   There is no way to go but through it!

1018 August 21, 2023 Yukon Discovery Day

I had a hard time being motivated this morning.  Some days are just like that.  I did finally go out and walk.

Tim took his bike and rode from the campground into town.  While he was gone, I was able to vacuum and wash floors. 

I drove the Jeep into town and started to bike along the river.  Tim met me and we tooled around for a while.  I was happy to be cycling and enjoyed the beautiful day.

We had to check on the progress at the building site.  Today, the rodbusters were putting up props to support the second layer of the rebar mat.

This evening, we took our dinner back to the bench by the river.

Afterward, we drove to the dam and looked at the fish ladder.  So far this season, 49 chinook or have climbed the ladder that bypasses the dam.

Today was Yukon Discovery Day.  This holiday commemorates the discovery of gold in this region.  There were no celebrations in Whitehorse.  We did learn that in Dawson City there were festivities but that is a long way away from here!

1017 August 20, 2023 Still Discovering Whitehorse

I drove to town and walked the river path.  I am still finding new things to enjoy.

I love these trashcans decorated by local students.

This afternoon, we took the bikes into Whitehorse.  We took the Millenium Trail across a footbridge and into Bert Law Park.  The path was narrow and muddy in places so we pushed our bikes.  This was a pretty little island in the Yukon River.  Migrating birds will stop on their way south to feed on the multitude of berries that thrive here.

We took the Centennial Bridge across the river. 

There was a person in a tiny kayak practicing maneuvers in the rapids.  She was fun to watch.

We cycled along the river and then into downtown. 

We checked the progress at the Hyatt site.  The rodbusters have been here again, laying more rebar.

We stopped to get some blackberries at a nice produce market.

We spotted an eagle. I’m not certain if this is a juvenile bald eagle or a golden eagle.

We biked about 6 miles.  Neither of us was good about keeping track of our mileage.  It doesn’t really matter!  It was a great day to be outside and moving.

This evening, we took our dinner back to the river. 

1016 August 19, 2023 Hidden Lakes Hiking Trail

I took just a short walk around the campground this morning.  I was saving my legs for the hike we planned later in the day. 

We started at Long Lake.  It was pretty there but we couldn’t find the trailhead.

We went back to Hidden Lakes.  It was so chilly and wet the other day that we didn’t hike here.  Today was a perfect day to be outside.  The sky was blue and the sunshine was warm.  This was a nice hike.  Lots of hills up and down around the lakes. 

Slogging it up a long hill.

We found a bench where we sat and enjoyed the view.

We saw a kayaker.  The water was calm and it was a nice day to be on the water.

We could hear the loons calling.  Soon, it will be time for them to leave.

Evidence of beaver activity.

We hiked a little more than 3 miles.

We went back into town to do a couple of errands.

The rest of the day was spent quietly…still no word on when we can expect the parts for the RV.  They apparently left Fort Saint John on Wednesday.  Everything takes longer here. 

1015 August 18, 2023 Transportation Museum

It was another chilly morning walk.  The fireweed has lost its blossoms and the leaves are turning.

Today we visited the Yukon Transportation Museum.  Because of the harsh winter weather.  The Yukon has a variety of transportation modes that are uncommon where we come from.

Snowshoes.

Sleighs.

Whitehorse is the site for the Yukon Quest.  This is a 1,000-mile sled dog race on the frozen Yukon River.                                                                                                                                                      

The first snowmobile, the Fluffy Cat.

This is the story of a couple stranded for 49 days after the crash of their bush plane.

The first transit bus.

A truck used in the construction of the Alcan Highway.

An old red truck.

Planes are important in the transport of supplies to remote regions.

Trains were an essential part of the settlements that formed in the Yukon.

This is a birch bark canoe.  These were crafted by the First Nation Peoples that inhabited this area. These were also used by trappers and hunters.

Seal skin kayaks or qayaqs.

The local quilters guild created this quilt of the Alaska Highway.  It was gorgeous.

A well-crafted replica of the SS Klondike, an old steam powered paddlewheeler.

 The 16^th edition of the Milepost.  This has been our guide as we travel through Alaska and Canada.  Our book is the 75^th edition and is 656 pages.  There have been a lot of changes in the intervening years

This US Army truck was used to transport supplies in difficult terrain.

I wasn’t sure I would enjoy this place but it was extremely well-done and informative.  It was worth the trip!

This evening, we drove downtown.  We walked first through town.  There was live music in the town square.

There was more progress at the hotel building site.

We returned to Shipyards Park where we enjoyed a picnic dinner.  It was 65 degrees and sunny and it was nice to be outside and warm enough!

Yukon Workers’ Memorial at Shipyards Park. The five pillars represent workers, employers, governance, health care, and community.

1014 August 17, 2023 The Wilderness City

It was chilly and rainy and raw this morning.  I tried to walk in the campground and I lasted only a short time after the spitting rain started.

The other day at the Beringia Museum, I picked up “A Guide to Our Natural Areas – Wildlife in Whitehorse.”  Today we decided to follow the map and explore some of the trails just outside the city.  We packed lunch and away we went.

We drove to Hidden Lakes.  Many of the surrounding lakes are kettle lakes.  These lakes were the result of depressions left by glaciers, the melting ice then filled the depressions and lovely lakes were left behind.

We traveled to Chadburn Lake.  There were lots of places to get out and look around.  There were also lots of hiking trails.  It continued to be damp and nasty.  It was 43 degrees at lunchtime.  We declined the hiking opportunities.

We took the road to Grey Mountain.  It started as a paved road and then a nicely maintained gravel road and then the fun part was 3 miles of rough and bumpy.   The ride was incredible even on this gloomy day! 

We took the road to the end where it stopped at the cell phone and communication towers at the summit at an elevation of 4,250 feet.

The views of the Yukon River Valley were expansive.

We got back to RV just before the soaking rain began.

We had a quiet afternoon.  At 5pm the rain had stopped.  We drove downtown to the Fireweed Community Market.  There were all kinds of food and produce and craft vendors.  We found some orange zest sourdough bread, a small loaf of Danish rye, fresh greens, and some peach melba jam.

The Shipyards Park has an amazing playground…two boys I know would love it here!

We purchased California chicken sandwiches from a food truck.

We got some veggie and elk empanadas for dinner tomorrow.  I love a good market!

On our way through Whitehorse, we stopped to look at the progress at the hotel building site.  They placed some of the rebar today.

We had a great day in spite of the weather!

1013 August 16, 2023 Beringia

I began the day with a great walk along the Yukon River.

On my way back to the Jeep, I watched eagles and ravens sparring in the sky above the ridge.

We moved the RV from the truck stop to a real campground where we will wait to hear from the mechanic.

This afternoon, we visited the Yukon Beringia Interpretive Centre.  During the last Ice Age, much of Canada was covered by glacial ice.  The area from East Siberia into Alaska and Yukon was protected by mountains.  This area received very little moisture…no snow…no glaciers.  Instead, the sea water levels decreased and the Continental Shelf was exposed.  This region was then covered with grasses.  Grazing animals migrated across the Bering Strait; most notably musk oxen and wooly mammoths, bison and sheep.  Predators including short nosed giant bears and lions also came.  Eventually at the end of the Ice Age, people began to walk into this area.

This museum explains the history and culture of this portion of the world.  Lots of fossils have been preserved in the permafrost and as they are uncovered, discoveries are made about the life and survival of the inhabitants of Beringia.  We spent a couple of hours wandering through the exhibits and then watching a film about the mammoths…always learning and always more to learn!