John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park Key Largo, Florida
Welcome to the world Guy Joshua!!
Today was moving day. I had one last walk to Florida Bay.
We took all morning getting tanks cleaned out and driving back through the Everglades. We really do love it here. I know it will always be among my favorites places.
We stopped at Roberts again for mangos, papaya, and avocados.
A picture as we crossed the water into Key Largo.
We are camped at John Pennekamp State Park. When we first decided to come to the Keys, we couldn’t find any available camping spots in the state parks. One evening, I decided to look again and we were fortunate to find a site here for five nights. This park is mostly underwater. It protects the only living coral reef in the continental US. Lots of people come here to scuba dive or snorkel. Many of the boat tours and the aquarium are shut down because of COVID. There is a small beach area and the campground sits right on the Straits of Florida.
We were able to accomplish the mission of finding a new motor for our retractable steps. We found it at an RV dealer here in Key Largo.
We also found some amazing looking fresh tuna at the Fish House.
We took our dinner down by the water. Luckily, we sat in a pavilion as the rain fell around us.
After dinner we went for a drive. Harry Harris Park was destroyed by Hurricane Irma 3 years ago. It has been restored and we enjoyed a short walk as the sun was setting.
Flamingo Campground Everglades National Park Homestead, Florida Day 10
We set our alarm for 3:30 am and got up and dressed and took the Jeep for a night ride. We saw some night herons but other than that we were kind of disappointed…no critters and no snakes. It might not yet be cold enough for the snakes to come and lay on the pavement at night We did just sit in the quiet with the lights off. The almost full moon bright in the sky…just gorgeous. We were back in bed before 5 and slept until 8!
Today was our last full day in the Everglades. I decided to walk to Eco Pond for my morning walk. There were plenty of mosquitoes and a few birds. I was all by myself…no other people…no noise. It was so still and peaceful.
We rode our bikes from the campground to Florida Bay and to the marina. We saw this osprey.
This manatee was drinking fresh water from this drain outlet.
This croc was swimming in the marina.
Volunteers were hauling this dead manatee out of the water to take back to the Mammal Rescue Center to determine its cause of death.
We rode to Mrzak Pond. It occurred to me today that all of the dead mangrove trees might be a reason that the birds don’t gather here like they used to. Perhaps the influx of salt water changed the nature of the fish and other foods that the birds were accustomed to…just a guess.
This evening we grilled tuna steaks, made homemade guacamole, and grilled some apples. We took our picnic and sat by Florida Bay to watch yet another beautiful sunset.
This quote was posted at Eco Pond and resonated with me today.
Flamingo Campground Everglades National Park Homestead, Florida Day 9
I had vultures as my walking companions this morning. There are lots of them here. They are a nuisance in the campground. We have seen them tearing campsites apart, dragging trash and looting food…slices of bread and potato chips left out. You can shoo them away but they are relentless and walk about undeterred, always on the hunt for goods! They will also eat the rubber on an RV or a car. In areas where the vultures are very numerous, there are tarps to protect your vehicle.
Turkey vultures.
American black vultures.
We learned that the Nike Missile Site was having open house today from 10-2. We like biking there because it is a more protected back road and the traffic this weekend has been heavy on the main park road. We parked a couple of miles away and pedaled into the site.
We mentioned the other day that men were stationed here to enforce the US boundary during the Cold War and to protect the US from Soviet missiles that might potentially come from Cuba. There were three missiles ready to roll. In a matter of minutes, the crew could have the missiles on the launch pads ready to deploy. They could have either been used to intercept incoming artillery directed at the East Coast or they could have been sent directly to Cuba. Some of the missiles contained a nuclear warhead. The missiles flew at 1,000 feet at Mach 3.5…fortunately there was never any need to launch missiles from this place or any of the other 200 sites. The site doesn’t look that different than when it was decommissioned in 1979.
“It is insane that two men, sitting on opposite sides of the world, should be able to decide to bring an end to civilization.” John F. Kennedy October 27, 1962.
After touring the site, we biked another 12 miles. This is the easiest, flattest, smoothest bike ride ever…especially because there was no wind today!
This softshell turtle was crossing the road. It is the fastest we have ever seen a turtle move. It was comical to watch…he had flippers rather than feet but he could motor!
We saw this round pool of water and we were intrigued. We aren’t sure if it is a sink hole or a manmade structure. There were little fish and the water was so clear that we could see the bottom.
A 7-foot gator about 6 feet off the road. We swung back to take a picture. He was very aware of our presence. He suddenly dove into the canal with a huge splash startling Tim and I. I guess he had enough posing for pictures!
It was hot this afternoon and so we stayed in with the air on. We grilled fish for tacos with Mexican Street Corn, peppers and onions, and frijoles…just YUM!
Flamingo Campground Everglades National Park Homestead, Florida Day 8
Morning walk.
We drove the Jeep back into Homestead hoping to get the replacement motor for the retractable steps but we had no luck. We were able to go to the laundromat. When the clothes were done, we rode to Biscayne National Park. This is a really pretty little park along Biscayne Bay across the water from Miami. Most of the park is actually in the water. It protects a coral reef and shipwrecks. Snorkeling and kayaking are popular here. The park was very busy so, we chose to ride our bikes along the canals surrounding the park.
We stopped for a couple of groceries and for lunch. It was about 4:00 when we got back.
Flamingo Campground Everglades National Park Homestead, Florida Day 7
I woke up this morning with very tired legs. I decided to be lazy and skip my morning walk. We were going to go for just a short bike ride from the campground to the marina. There were a bunch of manatees so we did FaceTime with Oliver and Austin so they could watch. They also wanted to see the crocodile, so we biked over and called them again to show them pictures of the croc on the boat ramp. It is really fun to show them where we are and what we are doing!
After the calls, we got going again, we felt better, got in a groove, and pedaled all the way to Mrzek Pond. It was all together about 11 miles.
We stopped at the marina and sat by the water for a while.
We had lunch outside in the campground…another lovely day! This afternoon, we worked on the steps again…well Tim did…I was just the gopher. We didn’t make any progress. The motor is off now and we plan to take it to Homestead tomorrow and see if we can find a solution.
We had roasted turkey, steamed green beans, grilled sweet potatoes, orange cranberry sauce, and brown rolls for our Thanksgiving celebration. Dinner for two!
We texted, messaged, and called friends and family. We are very grateful for so many reasons and we wanted to take the time to be thankful today.
We watched the sunset from the old gas station at the marina. There were too many people at the beach this evening.
A nice walk, until the mosquitoes chased us back to the Jeep!
Flamingo Campground Everglades National Park Homestead, Florida Day 6
I chatted with Kyle for the entire two miles of my morning walk…what a pleasant way to start my day!
Tim and I cycled from the campground to West Lake again this morning. This was about an 18 mile roundtrip. It is very hard to take picture when you are really cycling but we did stop twice for turtles.
This is a Florida Soft Shell Turtle. He has a snout like nose. He was about 12 inches long. We were reluctant to pick him up and help him cross because of his size…but we know he made it to the other side safely.
This little guy was about 4 inches long. He was already on the white line but Tim gave him a little push into the grass to get him off the pavement.
We rode through the marina on our way back to the RV. There was a single manatee in the marina but too far away for pictures.
We ate lunch and then Tim rested while I talked with my sister and my mom. We packed up the RV to move to the dump station for cleaning tanks and filling with water. As Tim was pulling out of our site, I noticed that the steps were out. I stopped him and we tried to get the steps to go in…but they were stuck! We think it might be an electrical problem…this is not Tim’s area of expertise. He messed with the steps for a long time before disengaging them and tying them up with string. We finally made it to get water and then had tuna salad and hummus and veggies for dinner. Tim has a list of things he can try tomorrow. It’s not a huge problem…more of an inconvenience. In the meantime, we will just jump/haul ourselves up into the RV and carefully jump/slide out!
We went night prowling this evening. It was balmy and gorgeous for a walk around the marina. We saw a heron and a croc.
We drove a short way down the park road looking for snakes…from the safety of our Jeep…but we saw a man and a boy with bare feet and with headlamps on walking along the road, moving branches in search of snakes…NOT DOING THAT!!
We stopped at Mrzak Pond. We turned off the lights and the engine and sat in the darkness, appreciating the night noises. We could hear an owl, grasshoppers, and the wind moving through the trees. It is nice once in a while just to pause and pay attention.
Flamingo Campground Everglades National Park Homestead, Florida Day 5
It was 66 degrees overnight. What a delight to have the windows open and the cool breeze blowing through. It was another beautiful morning for a walk. This time I didn’t give the mosquitos a chance. I drenched myself in Repel and had a very pleasant stroll. I chatted with Mom while walking.
We took our bikes from the campground to Florida Bay to the Visitors Center to the marina and then over the bridge.
We saw at least 7 manatees in the marina. It is apparently the beginning of their mating season and the marina is a cool place to make friends!
This crocodile was sunning himself on the boat ramp. We made this short video for the grandkids.
We stopped at Eco Pond.
We packed some papaya and lettuce wraps and headed back to the marina for a picnic lunch. The crocodile was out again…with his mouth wide open. When crocodiles get too hot when sunning themselves, they open their mouths to cool off. They actually sweat through their mouths!
We spent a lazy afternoon sitting outside in the shade, enjoying the gentle wind.
I made grilled salmon Caesar salad and grilled pineapple with honey and cinnamon. We packed some sangria and took our dinner to the bay to watch the sunset.
We saw this little boy throw his line in and several minutes later he had this 21-inch redfish. His dad hadn’t even had time to bait his hook yet! Such joy!!
Flamingo Campground Everglades National Park Homestead, Florida Day 4
The mosquitos were hateful early this morning after all the rain we had yesterday. I only walked a mile and a half. I knew though that we would get plenty of exercise later today.
Crawfish maybe??? This one was poised for a fight. remains of his friends lay scattered on the pavement. I think the birds like them!
The hawk of the morning!
We left the Jeep at Paurotis Pond and rode our bikes. It was a lovely morning with bright blue sky. The few clouds were lavender smudges. This part of the park road took us through open Everglades. This national park is over one million acres. Here, you have a sense of vastness. The long swaying sawgrass, golden in the morning light. The prehistoric looking birds, delving into the swampiness for their breakfast. As you look across the great expanse, you are apt to see a tall white neck peeking above the grass. The silence is complete. We have always loved coming here. To us, it is an amazing place.
A Halloween pennant…a kind of skimmer.
Often when we are riding, I am reflecting and sometimes composing an essay in my head…most of the time, “un-blogworthy.” But today, I as thinking about how fear prevents us from enjoying life. Several people have expressed their fears for us as we travel. Certainly, there are many things that we could and should be afraid of. COVID, political mayhem, economic uncertainty, weather, crocodiles, snakes, alligators, mosquitoes, sunshine…But each day we choose. Primarily, we choose to be as smart as we can and protect ourselves the best way that we know how. My current perfume could be called “eau de skeeter” and nobody is more socially isolated than we are…But we also choose to embrace life, to soak up the warm sunshine, to exercise our bodies, to appreciate the beauty surrounding us, to seek experiences that bring us joy and we choose to bask in the restorative power of nature. That’s what we are doing here.
We biked the 5.5 miles To Mahogany Hammock. We sat for a while under a shade tree at the hammock. A hammock is a slightly higher and drier piece of land that exists in the midst of all of this flowing water. Hardwood trees are able to grow here.
Then we biked back to Paurotis Pond.
We had decided to make a trip back into Homestead today. Our first stop was at Chipotle for salads with grilled chicken. We placed our order online and then ate outside on the adjacent patio. We had the company of these grackles.
We stopped at Home Depot for a special tool to adjust the Jeep headlights, and then at the grocery store, the gas station and of course at Robert’s. The Kent mangoes from Ecuador are outstanding as are the large Florida avocados and we enjoyed these for our dinner with smoked fish dip made in the Keys.
This is a good life.
After dark, we went for a Jeep ride. It is both creepy and thrilling to ride out here in the absolute dark! We did get out and walk around at the marina. It was such a gorgeous evening. The moon won’t be full for another week but it was already bright enough to cast shadows. We saw a night heron devouring a fish but no crocs or gators or manatees tonight. Driving down the park road, we saw birds and bats.
Flamingo Campground Everglades National Park Homestead, Florida Day 3
Once again, I took my morning walk around the campground loop and out to Florida Bay. There are so many hawks. We must have seen a dozen today, one with a small snake in its talons.
I watched this osprey take off from the nest. He flew out over the field and using his feet, broke a branch from the top of a dead tree and returned here to make it part of his love nest!
We pedaled from West Lake almost 4 miles to Nine Mile Pond. We could see that the skies ahead were threatening. It began to rain lightly and then more steadily. We finally turned back.
Once we got back to West Lake, the rain had stopped so we walked the boardwalk trail.
This damage must be from Irma in 2017.
It began to rain yet again as we walked to the parking lot.
It rained all afternoon until after sunset. It was probably good that we had a lighter day today…our legs were tired from our long ride yesterday. I had a good book to read, Tim followed the Ravens game which ended in an overtime loss.
We made eggs and toast for dinner…just a regular kind of day. I hope that the sun shines tomorrow, we are ready to go out and play!
Flamingo Campground Everglades National Park Homestead, Florida Day 2
I took my morning walk around the campground loop and out to Florida Bay.
Later this morning we pedaled from Flamingo to West Lake. We probably biked about 18 miles…the first 9 in a 9mph headwind.
We passed recovering mangrove trees. Three years ago, Hurricane Irma swept through southern Florida. There was significant damage to the park. One of the casualties was this area of mangroves. The salt water from the bay was pushed up inland and smothered these trees. The mangroves were unable to tolerate the extended period of salinity and died. Scientists estimate that it will take about 35-40 years for these trees to regrow.
We were riding along the road and I saw a flash of pink. Four roseate spoonbills were roosting in the trees with some ibis. Typically, spoonbills are hard to find and difficult to capture in pictures…so it was exciting to be this close and get such good images.
Mrazek Pond was deserted but for a few anhinga and an alligator.
We stopped at Coots Bay where we saw a myriad of birds…ibis, egrets, heron, spoonbills, and wood storks.
When we got to West Lake, we sat by the water, enjoying the gentle breeze and the beautiful lake. What a wonderful reward after the work of getting here!
The tailwind propelled us home. Tim caught sight of this snake skin…not sure what kind of snake…but it was large!
We saw a gator on the bank along the road just six feet from where we were biking.
We wandered through the marina and saw 4 manatees. This one swam close enough for a photo.
We spent the afternoon outside enjoying the warmth, the breeze, and a good book!
We grilled bison burgers and drove the Jeep over to Florida Bay where we watched the sunset while eating our dinner…Bliss!!
