Day 2 Pine Springs Campground Guadalupe Mountains National Park Salt Flat, Texas

We packed our lunch and drove to the Frijole Road entrance to the park.  We hiked the Smith Spring Trail. 

We passed the Manzanita Spring.

The trail was initially a wheel chair accessible trail.

As the trail progressed it became more challenging.

We took this game trail down into the wash and had to climb back out and then back in and then it was too steep to get back out so we turned around and hiked back the way we had come.  It was pretty and challenging so it added extra adventure, activity, and distance to our hike!

We saw a group of 6 female mule deer far above on the hillside.  They looked large with fawn…it is spring!

This fossil in this rock is a reminder that all of this was undersea 270 million years ago.  The Guadalupe Mountains are actually the remainder of a reef.

This is Smith Spring.  We are in the Chihuahuan Desert.  This spring was important to the survival of the people who lived here.  The area is surrounded by lush green trees. 

The views were spectacular!

After our hike we were looking for a nice place to have lunch.  We drove into New Mexico and to the southern edge of the Carlsbad Caverns National Park.  There was a place to hike to a cavern here but you can only go on a ranger guided tour.  It was a nice picnic spot.

Wild turkeys.

We drove to Whites City to refuel the Jeep and then headed back “home.”

We had tortellini with shrimp and peas in a lemon, garlic, butter, parmesan sauce…so yummy!

Mileage:  61,297 Pine Springs Campground Guadalupe Mountains National Park Salt Flat, Texas

We started our day watching the cottontails hopping around outside the RV. 

As we watched, we also saw bighorn sheep on the rocks across the way.

We hiked some of the accessible trails at Hueco Tanks.  Hikers are only allowed to explore the North Mountain area without a guide. 

We saw ancient pictographs covered with graffiti. 

Beautiful claret cup cactus.

Lots of cool rock formations.

This is one example of how pictographs have been destroyed.  This pictograph is thought to be a painting of the war between the native people and Mexican soldiers that occurred in 1839.

This is how is appears today.

It really gave us a greater understanding of the need to protect these ancient documents.

We left Hueco Tanks with the plan to travel east.  Tim asked me to drive this morning.  He got us onto the highway and I drove more than 80 miles on 62/180 or the Texas Mountain Trail.  It is a lot to pay attention to. I feel like I cannot relax for even a second…but I also don’t mind doing it. It gets easier each time I climb into the driver’s seat!

We still were not certain where we wanted to go.  Tim decided  that we should go to Guadalupe Mountains National Park.  I pulled over in a picnic area and let him take us into the campground.

After lunch, we headed out in the Jeep to the Williams Ranch Trail.  This trail is secured by locked gates.  First, we had to get the key from the visitor’s center. 

The sky had some dark and threatening clouds.  We got a few drops of rain and the clouds blew by.

This trail intersects with the Butterfield Overland Mail Trail or the Butterfield Stagecoach Trail.

The trail was gravel and rough in places.

Williams Ranch was built in the early 1900’s. The guy who built it brought his new bride here.  She stayed one day and one night and then went back home!  Given how isolated and remote this site is today…I can only imagine how she must have felt!

It is a beautiful place.  The views of the mountains and the salt flats far below are incredible.   

The rain clouds in the distance.  We could even hear thunder.

We got back to the RV, happy and tired!!

Mileage: 61,206 Hueco Tanks State Park El Paso, Texas

Tim was awake early and ready to go. Densely clouded, leaden skies and a temperature of 39 degrees meant that it was even colder at higher elevations and likely to snow. We were on our way south toward Silver City and we still had mountains to cross. Is it snowing on those peaks???

As we descended into the valley there were trees with tiny new leaves. This is my very favorite time of the year!

Pretty scenery.

Free range cattle farming.

We stopped for breakfast at Leopold Vista. Aldo Leopold was a visionary. He was an ecologist who believed that it was important to preserve wilderness or “an area still wild enough and big enough to travel on horseback for 2 weeks without crossing any roads or seeing other signs of human development.” In 1924 he was able to get the Forest Service to designate the Gila Forest as the nation’s first wilderness area. We are grateful for men like Leopold who had the foresight to create these beautiful public lands.

We thought about staying in Silver City. We had wanted to see the Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument. We were going to find a campground for the RV and take the Jeep. It was going to take 2 hours to travel each way. It was a cold 49 degrees, and overcast. We decided to save that for another day and travel further south to El Paso where it was supposed to be 72 degrees. The choices for camping in and around El Paso were pretty dismal. The reviews were poor and all were near Route 10. We looked at the map and found Hueco Tanks State Park on the outskirts of El Paso. This would be a neat place to spend some time. We really got here too late in the day to hike around and see the pictographs. This park has a history of native presence that dates back 10,000 years. We both had to watch an orientation video to be able to camp here overnight. They are working very hard to protect what is left of the pictographs and other artifacts that remain. Unfortunately, prior to all their rules and protections, there was a lot of damage and graffiti in the park. Now only 70 people each day are allowed to come in and hike. 3/4 of the park is only accessible on guided tours and the gate is locked to the public at 6pm. They are serious about preserving the history of this sacred place.

Mileage:  60,937 Cottonwood Campground Apache National Forest Glenwood, New Mexico

The wind died down sometime during the night.  We were at 4,000 feet in elevation and it was 48 degrees this morning when we got up.  The warmth from the sun made it crisp and pleasant to be outside.

We continued on Route 60 through Arizona. 

We stopped at this rest area.  There is a shrine for the Apache people.  We are entering Apache Tribal land.  On the reservation, you cannot hike, camp, hunt, or fish without a permit from the Apache Tribal Headquarters.

Claudia said “Go see Salt River Canyon.”  I’m going to tell you that if Claudia tells you to go…you should listen.  This was a stunning ride.  The road was gently rolling, there were switchbacks and wide sweeping turns.  We kept pulling over at each scenic overlook so that we could see the river, the rapids, and the canyon from another perspective.  It was just so pretty.  As usual, we took lots of pictures.  This evening when we were sorting pictures for the blog, we were kind of disappointed…the pictures don’t even look like what we saw!  Some people call this the “Mini Grand Canyon.”  There is nothing very mini about it.  It was so nice to be able to drive all the way down to the river and then ascend the mountains again. 

There was this memorial along the way.  I love that it says: “Hike mountains, Ride trails, Camp long, Chase adventure.”

We traveled on through Carrizo.  We passed the Bluebird Mine.  This area is “the copper center of the world.”  We saw the copper mine and a copper refining plant.  There were tractor trailers loads of copper being hauled out of town. 

We took 73E across the White Mountain and into the town of Whiteriver.  We parked across from the Bureau of Indian Affairs.  The town is surrounded by all of this incredibly beautiful land.  The town itself is very impoverished.  The houses were small and poor.  There was so much trash.  I watched teenaged kids toss their trash onto the ground.  I don’t understand the whole littering thing.  This is their home, their place, their land…why the trash everywhere???  It made me very sad.

The trees began to change.  These tall pines reminded me of some places in North Carolina.

As we continued our ride, we climbed higher in elevation, over 10,000 feet.  We began to notice patches of snow in the shadows. 

Then there was even more snow and even a ski resort.

All day long we had been seeing warning signs.

I had been scouring the mountainsides looking for animals.  We saw a herd of about 40 elk.

We also passed some horses grazing and a cattle ranch or two.  We saw burros and yaks on a farm.  I also saw 5 zebras in a field (YES, zebras!!!).  I wish that I had thought to take a picture.  I was so surprised, that by the time I realized what I was seeing, we had passed.

We drove on the Coronado Scenic Trail Route 180.  It was late in the afternoon and it was time to find a camping spot.  The first campground looked so nice that we turned around to go back to it.  It was called Luna Lake Recreation Area.  We traveled the dirt road back to the campsites and the gate was locked.  The campground was closed. I had neglected to read the details online…open from May-October…oops!!! This campground sat at 8,000 feet and the forecast is for snow there tomorrow, so it was probably okay that we couldn’t stay there. 

The next campground was closed because of the flooding of the San Francisco River about a month ago.

The next campground was 6 miles off the highway on a dirt road.  The sign at the beginning said no trucks greater than 38 feet permitted…

The next campground, Cottonwood Campground, was only for tents…we decided to go in and look around and see if we could get in.  There was no one else there and there was a site perfect for us to pull through.  We are at 5,800 feet.  Maybe the snow won’t get us here!

We made our dinner and sat by a fire.  It felt strange to sit in the woods after being in the desert for the past 2 months!

Mileage:  60,702 Oak Flat Campground Tonto National Forest Superior, Arizona

We left Blythe, crossing over the Colorado River into Arizona.  We drove on 10E through the desert, through the mountains, past Quartzsite, and to Phoenix. 

It was very windy today and you could see the dust blowing.

We noticed a small penny-sized chip in the RV windshield yesterday.  We called Safelite AutoGlass first thing this morning and they were able to arrange an appointment for us in Phoenix at 1:30 this afternoon.  We got there by 11:30 but they couldn’t see us any sooner.  Samson was our technician and he did everything he could to make it as easy as possible.  The windshield was repaired and it was after 3:00 pm.  We were not sure where we were going to spend the night.  Our friend, Claudia, had told us that Apache Junction, Salt River Canyon, Show Low, and Springerville were all very beautiful.  Looking at the map, there is a lot of scenic highway out that way.  We headed in that direction, through Phoenix, Tempe, and Mesa.   In the AllStays App I had found a small campground just east of Superior. 

10E in Phoenix was crowded and we were traveling during rush hour.  We were glad when the expressway ended at Apache Junction and the Gila Pinal Scenic Route began.

The Queen Creek Tunnel through the mountain had a clearance of 13’6”.  Our RV is 12’10”.  We saw a large fifth wheel and a tractor trailer emerge and we knew we would be fine!  We chose to ride in the middle lane.  It seemed taller than the sign said!

Our campground, Oak Flat.

We took a short hike up to the ridge.  The hiking surface was craggy volcanic rock.  In the picture below there is also a spider hideaway. 

Views from the ridge.

Fiery sky tonight.

Day 2 Mayflower Regional Park Blythe, California

Thankfully our campsite has a great big willow tree for shade.

We spent some time this morning doing laundry and other chores. Tim found a place to get his haircut. By 10:30, we had our cooler packed and we headed north of Blythe. We really were not certain exactly where we were going. We were looking for a Jeep trail that would take us into the Big Maria Mountains. We found the perfect ride. First, Tim had to air down the tires. Please note his handsome hair!

Lunch spot.

This was the most precarious part of the ride. We had to descend about 100 feet vertically on a very steep slope and then get back up again on the other side to continue the trail. From one ridge to the other, through the wash. Slow and easy…It was almost a “V”.

There were parts of the trail where we would go up to the top of the knoll and not be able to see what was beyond that. We would have to creep over the edge to see where the trail went next.

It felt like summer here today!

We took our chef salads and berries with sourdough bread down to the river for dinner.

If you know Tim, then you know this is how he parks!

We watched the river current, rougher tonight because of the wind. We saw a vermilion flycatcher, a small bright red bird unfamiliar to us at home. We saw grackles chasing one another across the sky. There were yellow winged blackbirds in the campground today. We also saw a pair of herons in flight. It’s amazing how much things change with the water supply from the river.

This evening we met a couple in the campground and we spoke with them about off-road adventures and the RV lifestyle. They had also been small business owners and we had a lot in common.

Mileage: 60,476 Mayflower Regional Park Blythe, California

We are starting to head east. First, we wanted to see the rest of the scenic route around Joshua Tree National Park. We passed through Indian Canyon.

There were miles of windmills.

We passed through Palm Springs. Several people had told us how beautiful the city was. There were curved paved walking paths, landscaped with brightly colored flowers. The lawns were lush and green. This was a very upscale kind of place! Some of the houses were boxy and modern. There were villas built into the mountainside with large expanses of windows. There were large adobe houses with terracotta roofs. In the next town were the car dealers…Lamborghini, Ferrari, Porsche, Mercedes, Austin Martin. I think that I read that there were 100 golf courses in the Palm Springs area! No place here for us and our little RV!

We passed through the desert with mountains flanking the roadside. We stopped at a gas station and on the way out, we passed over the lip onto the roadway. As we made our way onto the road, we hit an unanticipated dip in the road, looking at it later, we couldn’t even see that it was there. It caused the RV to rock from side to side sending dishes through the cabinet door and shattering Pyrex bowls. The glass shot forward into the cab and onto the counter-tops, into the sink and onto the furniture. The refrigerator door lock broke and groceries tumbled to the floor. The jar of sweet pickles broke as well, leaking sticky vinegar onto the tile and carpet. We pulled over onto the shoulder and worked together to clean up as much as we could.

We got to Blythe and we took everything apart to clean. It was 98 degrees inside. It was warm but because there is no humidity it really wasn’t uncomfortable!

When the RV was sparkling and fresh, I drove to the grocery store to shop.

After dinner, I went and walked around the park. Mayflower Regional park is right on the Colorado River.

There is a nest of owlets high in an old tree. The mama was initially sitting in the nest. Only the snowy head of one baby was visible.

She’s blurry but this is the mama owl in the nest.

The father sat in a nearby tree watching the nest while the female took a break.

As I walked back to the river, I saw her sitting in a tree.

I stayed at a table listening to the birds settling for the night. I could hear peepers from the lagoon. The mother owl began to hoot gently. The moon was a sliver and it glowed in the early evening sky. Stars had just started to pop. What a peaceful way to end the day.

Day 3 Twentynine Palms RV Resort Twentynine Palms, California

I walked through the campground this morning to the office to extend our stay. Tim saw this bee swarm directly across from our site. It was about 7 inches across. We were not sure if they are the africanized bees or not…but we kept our distance. The bees travel in a swarm, surrounding the queen as they fly. They often stop to rest.

The campground has a lovely rose garden. Pink roses are my favorite and this bush was resplendent!

We drove through the park early this morning. It was another gorgeous day. The forecast was for 87 degrees and sunny. I’m not sure I would like it here much in the summer but there is something to be said for dry air with NO humidity, NO bugs, NO rain, and NO allergies!

Today we had a shorter off-road adventure planned. Old Dale Road passes through the Pinto Basin and into the Pinto Mountains where there are several abandoned mining operations. Tim researched this and there was a wide discrepancy in the reviews of this trail. Some Jeepers described it as moderately difficult in spots and others were more negative. There were several warnings at the trail-head.

Can you imagine taking your rental car off-road!?! Recovery/towing fees in excess of $1,000.00…yikes!!!

The first 10 miles of the trail was soft sand and a pleasant ride. It sure is pretty here!

We saw our first desert tortoise today. He was about 12 inches long.

As we climbed in elevation and into the mountains, the trail was rougher.

The road was narrow and skirted the mountain on a steep ledge. There were honestly times that I busied myself looking for lizards while Tim negotiated the winding way. I saw dozens of them. It wasn’t a good place to stop and take pictures though! Tim needed to concentrate on his driving. It was very warm today and we saw desert iguanas, chuckwallas, and all kinds of smaller lizards. Most quickly skittered away as we passed…elusive little critters!

We descended the mountains and made our way back to the highway.

Tim was able to watch the end of the NASCAR race and then we went to dinner in town at a good Mexican restaurant!

Day 2 Twentynine Palms RV Resort Twentynine Palms, California

We had planned a long off-road drive today in Joshua Tree National Park. We packed breakfast, lunch, and snacks and started our ride. There are 9 campgrounds within the park and they are all full! The place we are staying is only a couple of miles from the north entrance to the park.

The weather was perfect today! The mountains, the rock formations, the wildflowers and the critters were all in rare form. The off-road trails were fairly tame but we had some fun spots too! We had an amazing day! We didn’t get pictures but we saw a golden eagle soaring overhead. It began to make tighter circles and it looked like he was hunting. We watched him dive and fly off with a jackrabbit in his talons. It was a spectacular sight!

Geology Tour Road took us down into Pleasant Valley. Because of the fertile soil and the water in the valley the variety of flowers here was incredible. Pictures cannot capture the large expanses of flowers nor the dazzling colors. We are fortunate to be able to see this. Many years there is not enough rain for the wildflowers to bloom. Seeds can lie dormant on the desert floor for years before the conditions are right.

Berdoo Canyon Road was a little more challenging.

We had to pull over to allow a Jeep coming from the opposite direction to pass. The guy in the first Jeep told us there were 28 more Jeeps behind him! We watched as they passed by! The last one was a little bit bigger than a Jeep!

Flowers in the canyon.

Beavertail cactus, a kind of prickly pear, in bloom.

Gorgeous views.

Lunch spot.

Desert Caterpillar or white-lined sphinx moth caterpillar.

A pair of really cool bugs.

A chuckwalla sunning himself.

We took the highway to the next trail, Pinkham Canyon Trail.

We got out to walk around and the caterpillars were everywhere! They were moving a a very fast pace across the gravel road.

This guy did not like me to get too close…he started throwing himself around.

We got back to the main park road after 5:00. Pretty here too!

In the campground there is a permanent unit parked with this sign out front. Yockey was my maiden name and it isn’t very common. I have been watching to see if anyone is around…I’d have to stop and ask if somehow we are related!?! Maybe tomorrow I will ask at the office!

Mileage: 60,295 Twentynine Palms RV Resort Twentynine Palms, California

It is moving day!! We took 95 south away from Las Vegas…away from the crowds and noise and traffic! We did have good time there and we got a lot done…it is just time to go!

We passed a large solar farm…miles long. They probably only produce enough electricity to power the Bellagio; its fountains and chandeliers, and neon lights and slot machines, bars and hotel rooms!

We passed through an area of “Critical Environmental Concern.” The desert tortoises are a protected species. They are able to get all the water they need from the food they ingest. They store this water and recycle it. If they are startled, it can cause them to urinate. They lose all their water, dehydrate, and die. Turtle nests are an easy buffet for all the animals higher on the food chain.

We started to see Joshua trees and we looked at the elevation app on Tim’s phone. We have made the observation that they thrive in desert elevations of 3,000 – 5,000 feet. They only live naturally in the Mojave Desert. They grow about 1 inch a year. The park has a tree that is 40 feet tall and 350 years old.

We stopped at the Cal-Nev-Ari rest stop and had our breakfast outside.

We stopped for diesel fuel right after breakfast and before the California border. We paid $3.19 a gallon. The next gas station was in California and diesel fuel was $5.49 a gallon. We bought 30 gallons of fuel. We saved $69.00 by buying our fuel in Nevada! California has a problem!

We took Route 95 to Route 66. It was our plan to take Route 66 all the way to Joshua Tree. All of a sudden, the road was closed. We had to turn around, luckily there was a place large enough for us to turn around, and we made a new plan.

There were so many beautiful wildflowers along the roadside today. It just doesn’t work to take pictures of them from a moving vehicle. This year there is a “superbloom” in the desert because of the very wet winter and spring. Pinks and purples and yellows and whites and then the prickly pear cactus are just starting to bloom so suddenly you see a bright splash of fuchsia on the desert floor. I love flowers!

Such a pretty ride!

The town of Amboy and Roy’s Motel and Cafe was a famous stopping spot when Route 66 was in its heyday! Now it has a population of 6 and there isn’t much left. Production companies and photographers do use this now defunct business for filming and there was a crew there today.

The Amboy Crater is the remnant of a cinder cone volcano. The black lava rock that spewed from the volcano goes on for miles.

Just outside Amboy there were salt fields/a dry lake that were being used to harvest calcium chloride.

After we got to the campground, we rested for a short time and then packed a picnic dinner; crostini, bruschetta, Havarti and cheddar, apples, hummus, and veggies.

As soon as we entered Joshua Tree National Park, Tim spotted this bighorn ram on the rocks. We watched him and took some pictures and as we drove past the rocks we saw the rest of his crew heading away from us.

The boulders and rock formations are otherworldly. It looks like wads of clay bunched together haphazardly. Something a child might construct.

There is a veritable forest of Joshua trees. These trees are growing more densely than others we have seen. They are also much larger.

There was stunning scenery from Keys View. This overlooks the Coachella Valley and the San Andreas Fault. It was 55 degrees and breezy!! Most people had on winter coats and cold weather clothes.

We took the Queen Valley Road, a dirt trail, through the valley, where we had our dinner.

We only did a short loop this evening and we plan to take a off-road trail, the Geology Tour Road, tomorrow.